Cruising Guide to South East Asia, Vol 2
Papua New Guinea, Indonesia, Singapore & the Malacca Strait to Phuket
(including West Peninsular Malaysia)
 
Stephen Davies & Elaine Morgan
 
First edition 1999
 
Supplement no 4, August 2003
 
All new or significantly modified entries are marked by an asterisk *.
 
Please send updates and corrections by post or email to ilnw@imray.com for forwarding or send them direct to us, Morgdav@aol.com. If your corrections include GPS positions please state clearly whether coordinates are in degrees and minutes with decimal places or with minutes divided into seconds.

* Page 4-5 Piracy and theft
Email addresses for IMB Piracy countermeasures office in Kuala Lumpur are ccskl@imbkl.po.my and imbkl@icc-ccs.org.uk. The Royal Malaysian Navy now has a Piracy HQ, tel +60 (0)3 235 7671, fax +60 (0)3 232 0910.

 

 
KEY
Red line = political or religious strife
1 = Independence movement in Atjeh (Aceh) re-ignited in 2003. Trouble is mainly inland but the coast is actively and aggressively patrolled, both ashore and at sea. A recent call at P. We (Sabang) for refuelling was subject to a search, close interrogation and the handing over of 'gifts', whereafter all was well. (see also D (purple line) below).
2 = Moluku, especially Ambon. Intercommunal violence between Muslims and Protestants, a declining problem but seek advice before visiting.
3 = Lombok. Some religiously inspired intercommunal violence, ask in Bali or in Kupang.
4 = Timor. Some residual problems in the E part of Indonesian Timor. Reports of theft in Dili Hrbr, East Timor.
5 = Java. Some security problems in major cities. Seek advice before visiting Surabaya or Jakarta.
6 = West Papua (ex Irian Jaya). OPM (Free Papua Movement) has minor clashes with Indonesian authorities. Mostly inland but occasionally affects life in Jayapura,
*7 = Bougainville. Separatist problem still unsettled, island off limits. There was an incident near Buka Passage in 2002 of boarding and ransacking a 50' yacht.

Purple line = piracy/smuggling/kidnapping
A = Isolated cases have occurred of boats being or feeling threatened in the Lingga Is, Bangka and Gelasa Straits. Although three cases of aggressive approach were reported in 2002, recent visits have been trouble free.
B = Anambas and Bunguran Is. We have heard no recent reports of any trouble save to large ships. The area is regularly visited by boats from Singapore, but it pays to make arrangements for your visit before you go.
C = Sulu Archipelago and Sulu Sea. Piracy and kidnapping danger. Yachts are not known to have been affected but caution is advised.
D = W coast of Sumatera. Reports of isolated theft and intimidation to do with turf wars over dive and surf tourism, possibly connected to 1 (Aceh) above. E = Manus and Admiralty Is. Danger of piracy and theft exist in this area especially at Lorengau and off islands SE of Manus (Lou and Pam).

Please consult our piracy advisory (Imray website, keyword 'Red Sea', and click on the piracy information rubric) for how to handle passage through areas you feel worried about.
* Page 7-8 Political situation
Indonesia's economy is recovering slowly after the bombing in Bali. Disputes continue between the central Indonesian government and separatists in the Atjeh (Aceh) province of N Sumatera and West Papua (ex Irian Jaya). The good news is that the state of emergency in east Moluku was lifted in May this year.
* East Timor The country was formally declared independent in 2002. Clearance can be completed at Dili but it's better to contact an East Timor diplomatic mission in advance, eg in Darwin. The new national flag, with a red background, has 2 triangles based on the hoist. The inner triangle is black, with a 5-pointed white star. The outer triangle whose height is half the length of the flag overall, is yellow. Facilities in Dili are basic and theft can be a problem.
Page 13 Routes When making the passage from Langkawi to Sri Lanka or vice versa, DO NOT steer the direct, rhumb line route of 270°/090°. This carries one of the heaviest concentrations of shipping traffic in the world. No problem in fair weather. Seriously worrying in white-out thunder squalls. Routing yourself via Sombrero Channel through the Nicobars adds little to the distance to sail and much to peace of mind. Sombrero Channel is no problem if you carefully monitor your position in the approaches and whilst making the transit, though it is best to plan to pass through in daylight hours.
Page 16 Intertropical Confluence The older term, 'Intertropical Convergence Zone' (ITCZ) is no longer favoured by some climatologists because it is descriptively inexact. A convergence is the coming together of two different air masses – for example cold and dry and warm and moist – which ride over and under each other rather than mix. It is this characteristic which gives temperate zone convergences their depressions and frontal systems. What is significant about the ITC is that it is the meeting point of two almost identical air masses – two warm and moist trade wind flows – meeting in the equatorial trough. They flow together and mix, like the confluence of two rivers, rather than act like temperate zone convergences. One consequence is the heavy cloud and extensive convection activity of the characteristic thunderstorm belts, but without the circulation characteristic of depressions. Another is the very variable and unpredictable strength and direction of the winds. It also follows that the associated formation of TRCs is by a wholly different mechanism to that which causes the depressions of the convergence zones of temperate latitudes.
Pages 23 and 25 Correction to wind rose zones Wind roses for Zones 1 and 3 have been transposed. Read those on p.23 for Zone 3 and those on p.25 for Zone 1.
Page 27 Radio
Voice forecasts Singapore (9VG) gave up voice weather forecasts on 31st March 2001. The only service is now via Inmarsat and on www.gov.sg/metsin.
You may be able to pick up the USCG computerised voice forecast from Guam on 6501kHz or 13089kHz at 0330, 0930, 1530 and 2130.
* Page 27 Ham radio
The SE Asia Maritime Mobile net (once Rowdy's net) now goes out on 14323 and is run by a new controller, Richard.
* Page 29 Voice forecast, Papua New Guinea
Forecasts are given daily at 1005 and 1603, LMT on 6510 from Port Moresby.
Page 30 Weatherfax The US Navy no longer issue forecasts on weatherfax.
Page 30 Weather websites
Try any of the following:
www.gov.sg/metsin/flm.html#mslp for Singapore, Malacca Straits and South China Sea maps
www.weather.gov.hk or www.info.gov.hk/hko/wxinfo good for the South China Sea
www.oceanweather.com/data/indian.gif adequate but not inspired
www.weatheronline.com though in our experience the German version, www.wetteronline.com is less dumbed down
www.saa.noaa.gov US government site, so be prepared to search around
www.edwards.indian.html and www.edwards.cc/tcp/wpacific.html for cyclone (typhoon) formation and movement
www.weather.com/weather/sat/animated/asiasat_720x486.html slow but interesting
www.thaimet.tmd.gov.th the Thai met agency equivalent to Hong Kong & Singapore
www.bmg.cbn.net.id/english/wind.htm for a look at weather over Indonesia
www.cwb.gov.tw/cwbindex_e.html for Brunei's weather
http://thestar.com.my/weather/wind.html for a Malaysian newspaper's view
Page 52 GPS and DGPS At midnight on 1st May, 2000 Selective Availability (SA) was switched off by the US Department of Defense. This means that a standard GPS receiver will now offer consistent accuracy to the order of ±10m. It also makes DGPS in practice redundant. However, please continue to note that many charts in the region, especially most of those for Indonesian waters, are not to the WGS84 datum and that reconciliation correction data may not be known.
Page 59 Telecommunications There are numerous cybercafés in Singapore but rates are high compared with Malaysia. Contrary to what we originally said, mobile phones, called handphones in Singapore, are as good an aid as any other if you are in distress in coastal waters. Singapore landline phone numbers are now all 8 digits beginning with '6'.
* Page 60 Health
SARS has been the major concern this year. Dengue fever is also a problem in some areas. There is no cure but the symptoms are less life-threatening than malaria. The aëdes mosquito that transmits dengue is most active during the day, unlike the malaria vector, anopheles. Medical care in Malaysia is good. The best facilities outside KL are in JB and Penang, where both the Gleneagles hospital and the Specialist Centre are very good. Medical tourism has taken off in Thailand where facilities are excellent and cheap, especially in Bangkok.
* Page 69 Money, PNG
The exchange rate with the US$ is now much more favourable, US$1= approx K3.6.
* Page 73 Papua New Guinea formalities Costs of visas have changed but they vary depending on country of issue. Visas should be valid for 6 months from date of issue and for 2 months once you have checked in. Latest reports say that officialdom in Madang is easier than in Lorengau (Manus) or Kavieng (New Ireland). Perhaps this is because of the frequency of yachts calling there but things can change.
Page 77 Bwagaoia, Misima There have been security problems. Lock your dinghy and don't go ashore at night. The best anchorage is near the head of the inlet after you have passed the outhouse built over the water. It shoals rapidly after this. There is approx 11m opposite the jetty.
* Page 85 Louisiades An anchorage in the Strathord Is has been recommended at 10°13'·5S, 151°52'E, 4M N of Hastings I in the Bonvouloir Is. Others recently visited in the Deboyne Is and the Calvados chain are W of Nivani, well protected in sand at, 10°47'·27S 152°23'·22E, in the Torlesse Is at 10°48'·14S 152°12'·74E, good holding in sand but only protected from SE. and in the Renard Is at 10°50'·23S 152°58'·39E.
Page 86 D'Entrecasteaux Is More good anchorages in Milne Bay have been reported at We have a report of a good anchorage off the village on Dobu I, between Fergusson and Normanby Is, at 09°51'·8S, 151°16'·9E and of the bays either side of Make-la Pt on the S coast of Normanby. Don't leave tempting loose objects on deck when you anchor near settlements.
Page 87 New Guinea shore A good anchorage on sand and shell has been reported at 09°37'·82S, 149°58'E off Mukawa Mission at Cape Vogel. Care needed on approach. Entering Porlock Harbour, Cape Nelson, avoid the bay to starboard at the entrance where there are uncharted reefs. Petty theft was reported by one boat that anchored here but the majority of villagers are helpful and courteous. Anchorage reported at 09°30'S, 149°04'E.
* Page 87 Muyuwa Gp
Good anchorages reported in Buyyasi Bay, NE coast of Muyuwa (Woodlark) I, 09°73'S 152°58'E, 12m sand and coral, and off Guasopa Village at 09°14'·24S 152°57'E, 6m, sand. At Budibudi the people are very poor and used to begging successfully from yachts. They want clothes more than anything. The anchorage in sand, among bommies is at 09°17'·9S 153°39'·9E.
* Page 90 Rabaul
Formalities Customs and Immigration are still in the town, but now at the commercial wharf.
Facilities We have heard that there is a new yacht club in operation and other changes are underway in the town, still recovering from the 1994 eruption. Rabaul Post Office may be open again though Poste Restante was reported unreliable. However, the EMS Express Service for mail in PNG is said to be very efficient and has been used successfully for submitting passports for visas. Kokopo has good public transport into Rabaul, an excellent market and supermarkets. Fuel is available by jerry from BP on the waterfront.
Page 93 Madang Word has it that the current cruisers' hangout is the Game Fishing Club. You can anchor off and they will keep mail for you. Diesel is much cheaper in PNG than in Australia. A well-protected anchorage has been reported off the Number One shipyard. Boats drawing less than 1·5m can enquire about long term berthing at Rookes Marine at the end of the creek above the Shell Oil jetty.
Page 97 Put Put Hrbr
There is only 1 leading mark left. The channel leads 240°T. It's narrow but has 10m. Anchor in 8–10m. Boats from the timber company can block access to the dock for over a week. Beware, some small crocodiles have been spotted in the harbour.
Page 97 English Cove
Crocodiles have been seen here too so keep an eye out. The 2 streams ashore have designated uses, the N one is for washing and the S for drinking. Don't ignore this because this is the rule of the villagers from Lambom Island whose turf this is.
* Page 97 Duke of York Gp
The anchorage at Makada (S of Makada Island, 04°08'·06S 152°26'·4E) is reported to have an easy entry with good holding, sand. Enter the anchorage at Mioko via the E passage. Then skirt the reef edge and anchor in the bay on the NW side of Mioko Island, sand, at 04°13'·76S 152°27'·34E. Friendly villagers, good snorkelling. GPS position for anchorage in Foul Bay, 04°11'·82S 152°25'·6E.
Page 97 Watom I Good shelter for strong NW'lies at the SE corner (04°07'·0S, 152°05'·4E) close off the jetty in about 4m, sand.
Page 101 Madang area Jais Aben Resort is apparently no longer as yacht-friendly as it once was.
Page 102 Kurum For latitude, read 145°54'E not 154°54'E.
Page 105 Vanimo formalities Customs are in a lane to seaward of the Indonesian Consulate.
* Page 106 Lorengau A wreck on the W side of the entrance makes a good mark with the old lighthouse on the E side. Check in at the government offices, 10 minutes' walk E from the wharf, 02°02'·05S 147°17'·56E. Turn right past the PO and go straight on till you reach some low buildings. Customs are round the back. They deal with all formalities. A charge of 50 kina was made in 2000 for boat inspection, 48 kina for light dues and 50 kina for 'rubbish collection'· These were valid for 3 months. Fuel and water available (See also correction for p.73). Don't try anchoring elsewhere before you check in at Manus. You'll be asked to move to Lorengau. For checking out it's possible to anchor off the government building. There's a sandy beach for going ashore in the dinghy.
   Sadly, we have had a report of armed robbery of a yacht at Lorengau and in the islands SE of Manus.
Page 109 Admiralty Is An anchorage on the NW side of Patuam I (02°10'·2S 147°47'·6E) has been recommended.
* Page 110 Hermit Is The islands have been made a marine reserve. A charge is made of US$10 per person for scuba diving. A guide is provided. Anchorage is now restricted to either of the bays N or S (Carola Bay) of the village of Luf. The latter is preferable if the weather suits, at 01°30'·92S 145°04'·39E in 5–8m sand/coral. Small gifts of about US$20, preferably cash, are appreciated. There may be crocodiles in the mangroves on some of the islands. Beware.
Page 111 Island chain A very confined anchorage for boats with maximum draught of 2m has been reported at Wuvulu in the S bay at Agita Pt, 01°44'·29N, 142°51'·23E where there is a pass through the reef to a small pier. It involves anchoring on the reef, inside the drop-off, and taking lines ashore. For SE'lies there is another possibility off the small island on the NW coast.
   At Heina Atoll, NE of Ninigo Gp, the pass into the lagoon marked 'boat passage' on the sketch has <2·1m (7') at mid-tide. The pass is close to the sandy peninsula with the huts on it. It is fairly straight and marked by 2 buoys. Make in only in good light. Once inside anchor in 4m, sand just behind the entrance. Excellent snorkeling, but many mosquitoes and sand flies.
Page 111 Ninigo. The Longan anchorage is poor in W quadrant winds (common in the NW monsoon (June through September)). A better anchorage for that season is reported S of Longan at Bahanat, once the German hospital island, where good fresh water is available and yachts are made welcome. Anchor close under the lee shore (about 10m off!) in 4m.
* Page 113-5 Kavieng
The Malangan Resort (02°34'·55S 150°47'·3E) welcomes yachts that anchor off but this area can be uncomfortable in certain conditions. Security can be a problem, especially for dinghies and outboards. For fuel and water it's possible to go alongside the commercial wharf. Email is available but unreliable and expensive at Becks beside the Kavieng Hotel, opposite the PO. Another recommended anchorage is in the pool off Nusalik I, W of the 2 posts in the sketch and N of the edge of West Reef. Good shelter and holding. The anchorage at Ribnitz has been tried recently and is reported easy to enter even though the water is often cloudy, as long as you have good light. At 02°40'·2S, 150°36'·6 the there is good holding, well sheltered in 8m, mud. Lights in the area are reported extinguished except for the outer reef light at Steffen Strait.
* Page 119 Royal Papua Yacht Club has a new clubhouse and facilities have much improved since the arrival of a new manager. Berths and haulout available.
* Page 129 Indonesia, formalities
The CAIT services offered by both Bali International Marina and Bali Yacht Services (see Appendix 3 for address) are recommended and currently cost about US$150. Yachts no longer need to clear into/out of every port visited, only the first and last port.  Efforts are being made to relax the regulations further. For now, if you intend only a very brief visit to Batam in the Riaus, at the moment you need not have either a visa or a CAIT. It has been reported that Kustarjono Prodjolalito is no longer responding to requests for CAITs. An alternative agent in Jakarta is:
APLI
MABES TNI AL
Jakarta Timur 13870
apli@centri.net.id
tel 021 872 3162
fax 021 871 1858

If you are based in Singapore or nearby and choose the Riau Gateway scheme for a limited cruising permit, be wary. The office sometimes issues registration documents showing the original cruising limits, although these have subsequently been extended. Specify the areas where you wish to cruise when you apply. Before you accept your green registration book, check the small map on the last page. Also check your permit to make sure they match. Approx costs for Riaus permits, payable in S$ (S$1=approx. US$0.56c) are:

LOA	<30'	30-45'	46-60'	>60'
Registration+	S$120	S$200	S$300	S$500
Single entry sailing permit	S$35	S$50	S$75	S$120
Multiple entry valid 3 months	S$80	S$120	S$150	S$250
Multiple entry valid 6 months	S$120	S$200	S$240	S$400
Multiple entry valid 1 year	S$200	S$350	S$400	S$600
CIQ clearance, payable on departure	S$50	S$50	S$50	S$50
Port dues++	pro rata	pro rata	pro rata	pro rata

+ Registration renewal is 50% of initial fee payable on expiry or transfer of registered owner.
++ called 'sea port levy', payable on departure from any port of call, calculated according to tonnage. For 14 GRT they were approx S$32 in spring 2002
e.g. single entry permit for a 12m (40'), 14GRT boat: S$200 + S$50 + S$32 = S$282
Unless you really use your permit to go back a couple of times from Singapore, a CAIT is nearly always cheaper and less hassle.
   When you get local port and health clearance at Nongsa for a cruise you may be asked to pay 50% of the CIQ clearance fee when you set out from there and 50% when you clear out for return to Singapore. Nongsa Point Marina makes all these arrangements for you – and takes the cash – payable in any currency but with a 5% surcharge if you pay by credit card.
   Confirmation of extended limits to the Riau Gateway area – which will include the Anambas Islands, the W coast of Sumatera, all of the Lingga Islands, the N of Bangka Is and of Selat Gelasa and part of the NE coast of Kalimantan is expected soon. Check with Golden Image in Singapore for the latest information. Note that their office is closed from 1230 on Fridays till 0900 on Mondays. Note that all old Singapore phone and fax numbers, except handphones, are prefixed by a figure 6.
Page 127-8 Hints on protocol Yachts are viewed with intense, benign curiosity in many of the remoter islands in Indonesia. If you find being a host gets too much but can't find a polite way of explaining, try smiling and saying or miming that it's time to pray ('jam berdoa') or just that you're busy '(kami seebuk').
Page 135 Jayapura Difficult to find reasonable depths in the anchorage. Try looking for the large neon MESRAN sign. Even there it's very deep but quiet. Don't leave your boat unattended here or in Teluk Imbi at night. Visit the Dept of Navigation for charts and the Post Office for a cybercafé. Telecoms office next door. Staff at Hotel Yasmin are helpful. See also warning page 4-5 above.
Page 137 Sorong It has been confirmed that check in is feasible both here and at Mapia.
Page 141 Ternate If you clear in here the problem is a very deep anchorage. CIQ are behind the port entrance near the PELNI office. The harbourmaster's office is about 300m away. For fuel, take a minibus and your jerries to the nearest service station, about 1M away, past the football stadium.
Page 155 Kupang The anchorage off Kupang town at 01°09'·55S 123°34'·45E, about 250m WSW of Toddeh Pt Light (F.R.8M) has been recommended. Jimmy has, alas, died. His brother Napa has taken over. You can raise him on VHF Ch 10. He charges approx A$50/US$25 to complete all formalities. If you leave your tender on the beach, you can hire boys who sleep there to look after it for a small fee.
Page 156-57 Cruising E Nusa Tenggara
Roti: the anchorage off the village of Papela at 10°35'·8S 123°22'·6E, 10m, mud and stones is apparently amongst wonderful local fishing boats. There is a drying reef in the entrance worth avoiding. The villagers are welcoming.
Sumba: the entrance to the anchorage at Waingapu (09°37'·5S 120°16'·5E) is buoyed, though there are shoals near the buoys and to the E of the anchorage to beware of. Give a wide berth to the beacon (R) at 09°37'·7S 120°15'·23E. After passing between the boys (R and G), leave the ferry pier to stbd and head towards the town wharf. The anchorage (09°38'·5S 120°15'·18E) is quite crowded and a stern anchor is recommended. The police may ask to see your papers.
Kawula (Lomblen): Lewoleba is reported to be well protected with good holding in sand, 8–9m. Fuel available in the village.
Flores: Recent reports have come in of more anchorages on the N coast. In Teluk Hading there is one at Wolu Dama, 08°17'·9S, 122°49'E. At Wodong anchor off the youth hostel at 08°13'·7S 122°28'·5E. Teluk Nagaraujong, 08°30'S 121°42'·8E, is a natural harbour, easy to enter with good holding on sand and mud. Untelue I in Riung Bay is in a protected marine reserve. There is a good anchorage in Si Pau Bay, between Untelue and Flores itself at 08°23'·4S 120°59'·6E. Beware of extensive reef N of Untelue I. Labuan Bajo continues to get good reports though the authorities may ask for baksheesh. Possible dinghy landing spots there are at the Komodo Information Centre or near the youth hostel. Fuel is available from a service station half way along the beach, N of the pier. Treat any fresh water taken aboard with chlorine. Produce markets and good restaurants.
Rinca The coordinates for the anchorage N of Nusa Kode (Lehok Uwada Dasami) are wrong. They should read 08°46'·6S, 119°39'·43E. Some find it hard to set their anchors here, but it gets rave reviews as a fabulous spot with wonderful wild life on the beach and good snorkeling on the island. A protected anchorage in Buaja Bay has been reported (entrance 08°37'·8S 119°42'·25E) at 08°39'·16S, 119°42'·73E, 12–14m, mud, near the buoys. If you try to anchor closer in, you'll find it hard to get your anchor to stick. The anchorage is quite small (<5 boats) and can be very gusty at night. A walk on the island with a ranger is apparently worth the money.
Komodo Entering Soro Lia Bay a white float to starboard marks extensive reef off the tourist boat dock beside the park HQ. Another possible anchorage, in about 10m with good holding is over in the E corner of the bay at 08°35'·14S, 119°31'·33E. Fees are charged for a 7-day permit for boats anchoring off Komodo or Rinca. Entrance fee for the park was Rp20,000 per person in 1999, valid for 3 days and covering Rinca as well. Extra charges for longer walks. Best to take an early morning guided walk to miss the crowds. Treat the dragons with respect, they can be dangerous.
Page 161 A yacht has recently tried the S route from Rinca and Komodo to Bali. It was apparently a most uncomfortable trip with lumpy seas, not much wind and overfalls off the entrances to the various straits. It compared very unfavourably with the rather longer but easier route across the N of Sumbawa. Our informant also stressed the importance of getting the tide right for your arrival in Selat Lombok and Selat Badung. With a small engine, they had a hard time making northing until they made the 100m line. On the 100m line there were overfalls which, had there been any wind, would have been dangerous in a small boat.
   The peaks of Bali are apparently not always or even very often visible.
Leaving Bali: Headed N up Selat Badung and Selat Lombok, it is recommended you leave 2hrs before HW. When the tide turns, hold within 1M of the shore aiming to pass inside Gilli Tepekong, being careful of Labuan Mendira (08°31'·53S 115°34'·69E) which lies halfway between the Gilli and Tg Bugbug. Thereafter close the shore as close as you dare (>50m) to stay in the counter-current, marked by smooth water.
Page 162 Bali International Marina charges US$2 per day for use of the dinghy dock if you anchor off. Cheaper long-term rates apply for dinghy docking at the marina, which is more convenient if you want to use taxis. Use of the marina's showers for boats anchored off is about 25 US cents. Discount showers and drinks if you pay for a guest card. E-mail facilities available. The marina will also organise clearance for you for about US$30 but clearance is free if you obtain your CAIT through them, check their website www.balimarina.com. Dinghies can also be tied up at the police dock, which is handy for taking a bemo into town. Makro in Denpasar is a good supermarket, which also sells hardware and takes Visa cards. There are ATM's outside Makro for withdrawls on most cash cards. There are now several cybercafés in Denpasar.
Page 162 Bali Yacht Services can also process CAITs. These cost about US$150.
Page 163 Cruising W Nusa Tenggara
Bima A new light has been reported between Bima and Sanggar Bays at Tanjung Bato Besar. Kilo (08°19'·5S, 118°23'E) has been recommended as a calm anchorage off a friendly village. Also try Brenti 08°09'·4S, 117°43'·4E. On Moyo I the Amanwana Resort is apparently very expensive.
On Lombok a good anchorage is reported at Kekalak, Gili Sulat, 08°20'·2S, 116°42'·3E, in 10m mud. Another well recommended anchorage is off the pier at Gili Aer in 12–18m over sand and coral with good protection. Co-ordinates for a good anchorage have been given as 08°09'·9S, 116°05'·3E. For the approach from the N, pass between Gili Meno and Gili Aer where there is negligible current and the reefs are clearly visible. The anchorage south of Tg Santigi (Sangiggi) behind the reef, near 08°30'S 116°02'·3E is rather rolly and deep but reportedly good. Ashore are hotel shopping malls with cybercafes but relatively high prices for souvenirs. We've heard of boats being asked for an anchoring fee by the harbourmaster.
Page 167 Madura A comfortable anchorage off Gilli Jenteng, 07°13'·15S 113°55'·0E amongst fish traps. At Kalianget (entrance 07°03'·73S 113°55'·86E) the harbormaster will direct you where to anchor. Very friendly people but a busy anchorage.
Lembongan (off Nusa Penida, Selat Badung) Good anchorage reported in 10m sand, mud and coral at 08°40'·5S, 115°26'·3E.
Kangean, a good anchorage reported in Ketapang Bay at 06°51'·5S, 115°14'E. Note the rocks in the N part of the bay, the S of which should be lit (Fl.5s12M) but don't bet on it.
Bawean, a good anchorage on the N side of the island in Teluk Promahan, to the W of the Tg Mantegi at 05°43'·7S, 112°40'E. Making in from the E beware of Karang Batu Kebu just E of Tg Mantegi and note that the reef flats W of the point extend a long way offshore. Open the bay right up before heading in.
Karimunjava the Kura-Kura Resort (approx 05°45'S 110°17'E) welcomes yachts. The anchorage is only OK for quiet weather. For further details contact KuraKura@idola.net.id
Page 170 PP Talaud Karakelong I has a reasonably protected anchorage over sand, 04°29'·1N, 126°43'·6E, where there is a fresh water spring near the village of Esang.
Kendari (03°58'S 122°40'E) Check-in is obligatory here and as at Labuan Bajo you should be prepared to deal with requests for baksheesh.
Page 172 Cruising Kalimantan The Sungei Kumai on the S coast of Kalimantan, 172M WNW of Banjarmasin and 184M NNW of Bawean is good for exploration. The entrance to Sungei Kumai in Telok Kumai is reportedly best accessed from 03°10'S, 111°37'E, at which point you'll be roughly midway between the beacons marking Gosong Sangora (4·5M SE of you, Fl.G.5s11M) and Gosong Berasbesah (5M NW of you, Fl.5s10M). Steer about 005°T to 02° 58'·30'S, 111° 40'·46E (watch out for the rock at 03° 06'·115S 111° 37'·16E) in about 5m with a starboard-hand buoy ahead. On a bearing of about 005°T the first lead to the channel, which favours the Tg Kluang shore should be visible. Follow the leads past the stbd-hand buoy to a port-hand beacon marked by a red square topmark. Keep 200m from the port (west) shore to round Tg Kluang (in theory Fl.5s10M), which should bring the next leading marks into view. Keep these in line until you can spot a leading line astern and by regularly looking behind you keep on that line until you lose it.
   Then keep trucking until in about 02°51'·38S, 111°43'·29E when another set of leading marks should appear on about 350°T. Once well into the river follow the middle until you are off Kumai town in about 02°44'·22S, 111°43'·88E. Anchor in 11–12m, good holding in mud. Exploring the Sekonyer River in the Tanjung Puting Reserve in your yacht is no longer recommended as the local Dayaks have made quiet objections to yachts being moored in the area, especially if they take lines ashore. There's also apparently some spat between the Dayaks and the park rangers. Instead it's much better to anchor off Kumai town where there is plenty of room and either take the dinghy up the Sekonyer or charter a local boat (Jien Joan and his brother Harry come recommended). The Sekonyer Ecolodge apparently offers a restaurant and good accommodation, tel +62 532 22923, fax +62 532 22991 or contact the head office tel +62 21 885 1914. The park has orang-utangs, proboscis monkeys, crocodiles and much else besides. More info on the reserve may be obtained from the Orang-utang Foundation, info@orangutan.org.uk
Page 175 Indonesia Area 3 – Cruising zones key map. The numbers of the zones are missing. They are: 1.Java: Jakarta to the Sunda Strait 2.The Riau Islands 3.West Kalimantan 4.Sumatra.
Page 185 Riau Gateway Scheme Area limits are under review. See page 129 above for details. Bridges now connect the islands of Batam, Rempang and Galang and nearby smaller islands in the straits between. Between Batam and Rempang the bridge has 37m clearance. Between Rempang and Galang it has 27m clearance. Those connecting the smaller islands are much lower. There is some doubt about the restricted area that we mention on Galang but the whole group of islands, known locally as 'Barelang' is ripe for industrial and resort development, and no one any longer seems to mind where you anchor.
* Page 186 Nongsa Point Marina
Approach Enter with caution in good light. P Nongsa is lit (Fl.8s20M, in the sketch on p.185, the light is on the smaller islet to the SW), as is the entrance to the marina but it is NOT recommended to enter at night. Terumbu Babi, the most dangerous shoal in the approaches, is on a direct line into and out of the marina. It was marked by a yellow flag in 2002. Waypoints clear N of it at the outer end of the channel (the mark is often missing) are, to the W, 01°12'·60N 104°5'·5E and to the E 01°12'·6N 104°05'·72E. From either of the waypoints above make for 01°12'·455N 104°05'·64E and then for 01°12'·23N 104°05'·775E which is just outside the marked channel. Note that tides run across the approach <2kts at springs.
Formalities A new regulation has emerged here for flag flying etiquette. You must fly flag N as well as flag Q when requesting inward clearance. Whether the hoist is NQ or QN doesn't seem to matter. A modest seaport levy (port dues) based on tonnage is charged on departure. You also have to pay outward clearance under the Riau scheme of S$50 payable in S$ or Rupiah when you leave for Singapore. If you intend to cruise in the Riau islands from Nongsa you may be asked to pay 50% of this fee when you leave to go cruising and the other half when you clear out of Indonesia for Singapore or wherever.
Facilities In strong NE'lies a considerable surge makes into the basin. The proposed plan to extend the breakwater has been abandoned, so life can be very trying because the orientation of the berths ensure you roll heavily, especially when at high water ferry wash rolls in to add its bit. However, the marina has a new dockmaster, see below) and repairs to damaged pontoons are underway. Berthing rates are very reasonable @ approx. US$6 per day and US$30 per week for 36–40' LOA. Power (220v, US type plugs, available for hire) and water (same connectors as in Singapore) are metered. Payment in US$, S$, Rupiah or by credit card (with surcharge). The return ferry fare to Singapore (Tanah Merah only) is approx US$16, including tax. Good bus service to Tanah Merah MRT from the Tanah Merah ferry terminal. If you only intend to stop in Nongsa for a couple of days while in transit you may be excused for not holding a CAIT. This assumes you will not be stopping elsewhere in Indonesia. Fuel and the cost of living in the marina are relatively expensive. There is a weekly shuttle bus (US$4.50 per head return) to the nearest town (Nagoya) where there's a supermarket, produce market, hardware stores, etc. Duty free alcohol and internet connection available both at the resort and in Nagoya but telecoms at Nongsa are unreliable. Fruit, veg and basic supplies are available at Batu Besar, a village on the way to Nagoya.
The dockmaster is Francis Olsen. Fax +62 778 761330, 761474 (from Singapore use prefix 019 or 011); mrbat@batam.wasantara.net.id;
Note: It is now possible to sail to the Anambas from Nongsa. If you want to go there direct from Singapore make enquiries at Golden Image or ask at Raffles Marina who have good contacts in the Anambas.
* Page 187 Sekupang
Approach Contrary to our caution, we didn't find any significant silting in the Riaus when we were in the area last year. Depths on charts are usually reliable and water visibility of shoals is generally pretty good. On the other hand, the outer red beacon charted in the approaches is looking the worse for wear. On the hill above the most conspicuous landmark is a new white statue.
   The quieter fuel barge is at approx 01°06'·31N 103°55'·58E, but all the fuel barges have industrial nozzles for force feeding ferries. You'll need a big funnel, patience and lots of rags.
Page 187 Marina Cove Resort
Waterfront City is a large development, partially completed, S of Sekupang. The resort includes a half finished facility called Tee Kay Marina where ferries are brought for refit while they're awaiting a licence to operate. The occasional cruiser comes for long term berthing because the place is pretty collapsoid. The approach to the marina is down a narrow dredged channel with some eccentric buoyage. Waypoints for the channel are 01°05'·02N 103°55'·78E, 01°05'·00N 103°55'·85E, 01°05'·05N 103°56'00E, 01°05'·03N 103°56'06E.
   The marina has pontoons though not all with mooring cleats. Some berths have services though when we were there the water supply was unreliable. There are no showers or heads. The only shoreside services near the marina are at the nearby Monkey Hut Resort, a very relaxed watering hole with a loo, a bucket shower for a nominal charge, cold beer and simple eats. Published rates for Tee Kay Marina bear scant resemblance to the actual prices charged. These are negotiable. We paid S$7 per day for berthing a 11·5m boat. Call the manager, Mr Anasran on Batam handphone no 0812 7022307 for a quote. Long term berthing rates may be interesting. Local transport is good for access to Batam's shopping centres and there are regular ferries to Singapore from the Waterfront City pier next door.
Page 187-9 Tanjung Pinang
Anchorage here is not recommended at present. It is busy and dirty. There are no visible haul-out facilities. And the harbourmaster is reported to be eager to charge you the maximum in dues.
Page 189 Cruising the Bangka, Lingga and Riau Is
There is very good sailing to be had among the islands in slight seas and clean water during the NE Monsoon. The fierce overfalls and standing waves where tidal streams meet and on the downstream side of passes, are less alarming than they look. Rips and eddies are common. That said there are countless anchorages, though most are weather dependent. The islands are often lovely, the more so the more one gets S into the Linggas. Fishermen and passers-by greeted us warmly wherever we anchored. We found no evidence to support stories of aggressive approaches. Locals who came to call were charming, friendly and naturally curious about who we were, where we came from and what we were doing.
   Ashore you will find little but jungle, beaches and the occasional small kampung – many very photogenically on stilts - until you are near to Batam and Bintan where population and development increase dramatically. Unfortunately this has made some anchorages less desirable than they once were.
Lingga Islands: The islands are fabulous and worth weeks of exploration, though you need to work the tides and navigate very carefully, since shoal ground doesn't always show. You'll also have to be prepared to make 'donations' (approx. US$10) to the local headmen of villages for the village. This keeps everyone happy. Dabo on P Singkep (00°30'·7S 104°34'·05E) is a large town where you can get supplies. Anchor clear of the long concrete jetty and expect to have to deal with the harbourmaster. You have to anchor quite a long way off near Daik (00°15'S 104°39'·5E), but if you don't mind, the place is worth a visit, being one of the oldest towns in the area and the home of the original Malay sultanate which once controlled all of the Riaus and Malaysia's Johor State including Singapore. A good anchorage can be had SW of P Kongka Besar (Kanga I) at approx 00°04'·7S 104°51'·6E in 8–9m sand. Pick your spot depending on wind direction. The amazing stilt villages of Sekana and Panchur in the N of the lagoon entered at 00°04'·94S 104°39'·8E are worth a visit. It's too shallow for yachts, but you can anchor off Senayang (between the main island and the smaller one offshore 00°02'·00S 104°39'·5E – a large town with a hospital and market and a ferry service to Tg Pinang) and hire a boat. Alternatively, anchor behind one of the small islets opposite the lagoon entrance and use your tender. At P Mesanak the anchorage on the N side is at 00°25'·3N 104°31'·3E, 10m in excellent holding – a N'ly squall packing 40kts was uncomfortably ridden out. Nearby P Merodong (00°23'·2N 104°26'·5E), 5–6m sand and coral, has an unusual ex-Japanese temple. In PP Ansunda the stilt village on the W coast of P Benan (00°28'·4N 104°26'·3E) has water and you can eat ashore. We loved the anchorage on the NE side of P Temiang (00°22'N 104°19'E) with its amazing catamaran fishing rafts. The strait leading between P Temiang and P Batang goes, but watch out for the isolated reefs off the N entrance and use it at HW.
Riau Islands: A better anchorage at PP Abang is W of the strait between P Abang Besar and P Abang Kechil near 00°33'·2 104°12'·2E, feel your way into 4m, but watch for reefs. There is another anchorage between the small islet and the E of P Abang Besar at 00°34'·8N 104°10'·95E. We found a charming spot E of Tg Koko (00°37'·25N 104°16'E) in 6m, sand, though the tide runs strongly. The anchorage SW of P Citlim is now a loading point for a nearby quarry, though you can anchor inside the long shoal NW of it and, if you're adventurous, essay the narrow strait between P Citlim and P Combol (5m, go at HW and feel your way. At the E end favour P Combol until clear of the long spit off the N of P Citlim). The anchorage at the SW end of P Pangkil (00°49'·2N 104°21'·1E), off the fringing reef and S of the kelong was viable in a lively NE but not that comfortable. You might try N of Tg Sembulang, 00°52'·14N 104°15'·25E. About halfway up Selat Riau and with some careful eyeballing, you can anchor N of P Nginang in amongst reefs at 01°01'·3N 104°09'·6E in 12–13m, good holding. The latitude given for P Kasem should read 01°02'N, not 00°02'N, but it's better to anchor more securely in the N running creeks W of Telaga Punggur, the town on Batam opposite P Kasem.
Page 191 W Kalimantan Approach the anchorage we give coordinates for, off the village at P Serutu, on the centre line to avoid danger. The diesel is very expensive. The beach has a fresh water stream. There is another recommended spot further E towards the light (Q(3)10s48M but don't bet on it) at 01°42'·4S, 108°41'·6E, but choose one of the big sand patches among the coral heads. P Karimata is a nature reserve.
Page 195 Sabang, P We, Formalities
If you stop here to reprovision expect to have to pay about US$25 for temporary clearance allowing you to stay 2–3 days. You may be able to arrange for a CAIT as well but we haven't tried it. (However, with the present state of emergency in Aceh, think twice before heading in here unless you are desperate for fuel or help (see pp 4-5 Caution Red 1 above.))
* Page 199 Singapore, routes
A great deal of reclamation has been taking place in Singapore waters, some of which is incomplete. The chartlet on p.198 is OUT OF DATE. Local sailors advise to stay outside all orange/yellow buoys at night. We advise you to transit this area in daylight till it becomes familiar and to listen out for Navigational warnings on VHF Ch 09. Major changes are S of Raffles Marina and E of Tanah Merah ferry pier, where the new naval base and associated reclamation extend to the limit of the old restricted area. Roughly, there is now land at the E end of the island out as far as 01°19'N 104°02'·4E. At the W end of the island the reclamation extends S from Tuas Jetty to approx 01°12'·6N 103°37'E. Extensive reclamation is also going on off P Tekong, in the channels S of Selat Jurong, and between P Serangoon and the main island.
   For the recommended route to Raffles Marina contact the marina office tel +65 6861 9000, fax +65 6862 2280 and check Navigational Notices on www.mpa.gov.sg. The excellent Maritime and Ports Authority (MPA) small craft chart book, which includes coastal charts for cruising the N part of the Riaus and as far as P Pisang and P Tioman in Malaysia, cannot keep pace even though there are regular new editions. Beware also Malaysian fishing craft with nets set in the approaches to Raffles Marina.
* Page 200 Singapore formalities
The rules have changed again. Unless you want to be a maverick you have 2 choices. On arrival you can either go to Raffles Marina, RSYC or Changi Sailing Club who will arrange clearance on behalf of visiting yachts for a fee of US$8–28 varying with yacht LOA and club membership. If several yachts arrive together at Raffles Marina they can clear at the same time and share the call-out fee. The alternative is to anchor in the unsuitable quarantine anchorage and call on VHF. If you go ashore to DIY as in the old days you may well meet problems. Paperwork is done on the spot at the marinas and crew will be issued with a 2 week visa extendable by 1-month periods.
   If you need a visa extension you can apply in person at the Seamen's Section, Immigration & Registration Department, ICA Building at 10, Kallang Road next to the Lavender MRT. The Seamen's Section is on the ground floor. The entrance is at the back of the building. Open 24 hours for extensions. Once cleared in, if you want to leave your boat in Singapore and fly home you'll have to sign yourself off as crew a few days before you leave. You'll need new crew lists, a letter of explanation, completed departure cards and airline tickets.
   If you want to go to the MPA in person the offices you need are in the white building across the dual carriageway at the bottom of Anson Road, opposite the IBM building. Motion Smith is on the other corner of this intersection. The One-Stop Centre is on the ground floor of the building, on the same side as the car park, tel 63252373. Take a numbered ticket from the machine near the door when you arrive or you'll miss your place in the queue. There are several small restaurants in the building, good for sampling a range of Singapore-style fast food.
   Customs are pretty relaxed and you needn't see them unless you have firearms to declare.
* Page 202 Singapore marinas, clubs and services
Raffles Marina is the best in Singapore, with very helpful staff but is the most expensive we've ever used. Normal rates are US$28 per day. The best current deal is approx US$195 for 7–10 nights, i.e. the 8th–10th nights are free. Latest details from the dockmaster, tel +65 6861 9000, fax +65 6862 2280. The adjacent boatyard has had serious shortcomings in the past which include a very uneven yard surface caused by subsidence. With the arrival of Natsteel to manage the yard improvements should take place, contact Marina Yacht Services, tel 6862 4320, 6869 1861; fax 68624431, marinayacht@pacific.net.sg. Haul out costs approx USS$340 for 40' LOA. High pressure wash approx US$110. US$18 per day for hardstanding if you DIY.
Republic of Singapore YC, tel 6768 9233, fax 6768 9230, h/p 93865500 (Marina Manager, Mark Ray) marinamgr@rsyc.org.sg, is welcoming and rates are much better at approx US$18 per day, US$125 per week for 40' LOA, tax and utilities extra but finger berths suffer from wash and surge from passing traffic. Negotiations are under way to fix this with some sort of new breakwater. RSYC offer CIQ clearance services that are cheaper than Raffles Marina or Changi. Visiting yachts under 80' LOA are charged approx $8.50 for clearing in or out. No haul out. The club is very luxurious, friendly and makes visiting yachts welcome. For full prices check the website: www.rsyc.org.sg. The downside is that they are not conveniently placed for getting into and out of town but they do run a shuttle bus to the MRT.
Natsteel Marine are moving to Raffles where they will take over the operation of the yard. The manager will be Mr Jeffrey Leng, also transferring from Natsteel. The old marina and yard at Loyang are closed.
Ponggol Marina has been seeing some hard times but there are still berths for visitors. Rates are as high as elsewhere in Singapore but you may be able to negotiate a discount for longer stays. The travel hoist is not working.
The Singapore Armed Forces Yacht Club (SAFYC) This is out in Sembawang on the N side of the island in the old naval base (approx 01°28'·3N 103°49'·2E). There is a small marina with about 40 berths, some moorings and a friendly, well-appointed clubhouse. The club welcomes visitors. Monthly rates for LOA 40' are approx USS$340 for a berth and US$205 for a mooring. The downside is that the club is in pretty vile water, inside a secure area and a long way from the bus stop to get you to the nearest MRT station. That said, if anywhere is the center of Singaporean sailing, the SAFYC is probably it, the dinghy fleet here at weekends is huge. The club is set to expand and hopes to open a second base near the new Changi Naval Base at approx. 01°18'·8N 102°01'·1E soon though this is unlikely to be attractive to yachts.
Gen Manager Lt. Col. Puah Neo Peng Chew
43, Admiralty Rd West, Singapore 759962
Tel 6758 3032 Fax 6757 9046
e-mail safyc@singnet.com.sg website www.safyc.org.sg
Changi Sailing Club often has moorings available these days. They are relatively inexpensive, even to non-members at approx US$6 per day, plus temporary membership fee (unchanged). The problems are wash from passing traffic and the virulence of under-water growth. You may be able to negotiate a discount for long stays. Haul-out at the club is available only for yachts <6 tons.
www.csc.org.sg; enquiry@csc.org.sg; after hours Operations Manager mobile tel 6963 67031.
Keppel Marina is undergoing redevelopment. Short-term berthing on a few good quality pontoons is available, but pontoons and the hard are surrounded by a building site. You may be able to organize being craned out. The new development is a villa and apartment complex plus 200 berth marina. Needless to say, this being Singapore and marinas being country clubs with water frontage, there will be no yard service. The marina entry will be at the W end (01°15'·85N 103°48'·6E), the E end will be closed by a causeway. At present the residential development is well advanced, but there's not much sign of any development on the water – don't hold your breath.
Sentosa Cove (01°14'·5N 103°50'·5E) has a few signs of recent progress with the canals for the south western residential complex being excavated. The latest plan is for a mega-marina village complex with access to the canals around the houses via locks and, in the tidal basin, yet another large marina with no yard services. For now, boats occasionally use the empty basin for a day anchorage.
Penguin Boat International has excellent, very expensive haul-out facilities at Tuas and caters largely for commercial vessels and mega-yachts up to 500 tons. They don't really like handling any vessel under 20m LOA.
yscheng@penguin.com.sg, tel 6868 06818322; fax 6897 8309.
'Lighthouse Marine' is a misnomer. Its real name is Ho Ah Lam Ferrocement Ltd, aka Light Marine. The premises are next door to Penguin and are very cramped. Bala Tan, the manager, will do haulout for you but you'll need to give him warning. The yard is dirty and would not suit everyone. Still, its hardstanding is the cheapest Singapore has to offer at US$14 per day and the work is reported to be quite good.
alumboat@singnet.com.sg, tel 6861 8828, fax 6861 5042
* Other contacts:
Motion Smith in Anson Rd is the agent for Imray pilots & for charts, website: www.singnet.com.sg/~motsmith; motsmith@singnet.com.sg
Marintech, 101 Kitchener Rd, 02-14 Jl Besar Plaza, also has a retail outlet at Changi Sailing Club, they will source almost anything you want and try to match US mail order discount prices. They will also order charts and publications from Motion Smith. Call Jessie Lee, tel 62988171, fax 62923869 Raymond, H/P 5420310; marintech@pacific.net.sg
Marine International are one alternative, 388 East Coast Rd; tel 64473004; fax 64474110; salesinfo@marine-intl.com.sg
Intermarine Supply Co are at no 12, Tuas Avenue 11, Jurong, tel 6863 3966, ropes@intermarine.com. Good for bulk cheap rope.
Repairs: George Olivit, Yacht Construction, tel 65422728, isys@pacific.net.sg
Scott Walker, North American Boat Services, mobile 97334849, walkerx3@pacific.net.sg
Electrician: Neo Poh Huat tel 67410317, fax 67440317, 96791304
Air-con/refrigeration: Wilson Tsing tel 62607638, fax 62607639, wiltsing@magix.com.sg
Generators: Raymond Lim (specialty Onan) mobile 9618 5685
Equipe Service agent for Jotun Paints tel 6861 5057, 6893 9618; fax 6893 9628; mobile 96882068
Azko Nobel now own International Paints, tel 6453 1981; fax 6453 1778; contact ernest.lee@uk.akznobel.com
PA Marine Zodiac, Bombard, Avon agent tel 6264 0823
Jason Electronics agent for Simrad tel 6774 4667; fax 6774 5673
Galvanizing Tempura Metals in West Tuas are quick, efficient and very reasonable (2 x 16kg and 1 x 12lb anchors all up S$50, tel 6861 8933, fax 6862 3318) The only hot dip galvanizers we found with a centrifuge.
Anthony Cushion, Blk 5 Ang Mo kio Industrial Park 2A (AMK Tech II), no.05-19, offer a high quality upholstery service, tel 6482 3949; fax 6482 6548, h/p 9781 4623
LPG: Note that LPG fittings in Singapore and Thailand are different from those found in Malaysia.
Page 206 Cruising from Singapore
There is an anchorage at P Hantu (01°13'·4N 103°45'·05E) in amongst the islands and refineries S of Jurong. It's both prettier and cleaner than you'd expect. There's a small harbour inside breakwaters. Other possibilities are on the N side of P Ubin in the Nenas Channel tucked well up against the Ubin shore, though there's now an unsightly fence in the sea below the high water mark to keep out illegal immigrants from Malaysia. From Raffles Marina you can head up the strait (use the main arch in Malaysian waters, there's only 10m or so air draft in the marked passage close to the Singapore side) and anchor near P Sarimbun (01°26'·0N 103°41'·05E) though the SAF jet fighters and the live firing on the range can be irksome. The only suitable longer-term anchorage is actually in Malaysian waters (see p.210, Johor Bahru below). If you are looking for a marina south of Singapore, try Nongsa Pt or TK Marina in the Waterfront City complex near Sekupang, both on Batam in the Riau Is.
   North of Singapore, one alternative is Sebana Marina Resort in Johor, up the Sungai Santi off Calder Harbour, N of Tg Pengelih. The entrance to the river is shallow but the channel can be accessed and the river can be negotiated at most states of tide with care. Parallel the shore from Tg Pengelih staying in >5m until you are in 01°23'·34N 104°05'·88E. Then steer 045°M for 1M to approx. 01°24'N 104°06'·44E. A useful back bearing, though for how long given reclamation and development we don't know, is to keep the largest, dark, rectangular building of the new Singapore Navy base on the Changi reclamation slightly open of the seaward end of the new Malaysian Navy pier at Tg Pengelih. The building will bear approx. 225°M and offers a leading line when exiting. The river is NOT buoyed, but the five mile steam up the river is Maughamesque and rather fun. Keep to the middle and you'll have at least 6m, usually over 10m. Note there is a shallow patch just where the last stretch to the marina leaves the main river with about 0·8 miles to go. Hold to the southern bank. Note: power cables are being installed, crossing the Sungei Santi at approx. 01°25'·2N 104°07'·5E, they are expected to have >30m clearance.
   Call on VHF Ch71, but only when you are close because the marina staff use handhelds to monitor traffic.
   Malaysian clearance formalities can be completed at the marina for a fee (approx US$13) or free of charge at the Customs post at Tg Pengelih^#. Office hours are 0900–1600. Water and power are metered. The fuel dock is on the river at the ferry pier. The marina is quiet and remote from services apart from those offered by the resort. These include showers and a pool, internet access and F & B outlets. An alternative to the resort restaurants is the staff canteen, near the car park which does cheap takeaways. Visitors' berthing rates are approx US$7.50 for 40' LOA per day with discounts for longer stays. There is a shuttle ferry to Singapore fare approx. US$15 return. Transport for shopping in the nearest town, Sungai Rengit, can be arranged. There are good engineering workshops for welding, stainless steel and other hardware. DIY gas refills are possible at the Shell service station. There is a standard bus service to Johor Bahru from Tg Pengelih. The route passes the marina entrance, but it takes forever and making the return trip in a day is close to impossible if there is to be any time for doing anything.
Enquiries: tel (0)7-8266053; fax (0)7-8266054/8266677; sebanacove@pacific.net.sg. For sketch see Vol I of this Guide.
# Dinghy access to the latter is possible via the ferry pier. Don't confuse it with the big new naval jetty further N to which access is restricted.
Page 209-10 The coasting route & tides You can use the tides to give yourself a lift when passage making along the Malaysian shore. However, don't believe rumours that you can hitch a tide from Langkawi to Lumut. Simple arithmetic ought to tell you that this just won't work unless you can average over 9 kts! On the other hand, you can certainly get a useful enough ride to make a 60–80 mile daytime run eminently feasible.
* Page 210 Malaysia – formalities A cruising permit is no longer required for Johor State. Alternate Saturdays are a public holiday throughout Peninsular Malaysia and this affects the availability of government offices in some towns. Note also that Jabatan Laut (Marine Department) and other government offices' opening hours can vary from state to state, e.g. in Muslim Langkawi Friday is a public holiday whereas in Perak on the mainland Sunday is closing day. You must check in wherever you stop, usually going first to Immigration, then Customs followed by the harbourmaster.
Page 210 Johor Bahru The anchorages at Johor Bahru are still well recommended since there is nowhere good to anchor in Singapore waters but they are none too clean. Both E and W of the causeway are possible but the E side is thought best at approx 01°28'·6N 103°47'·55E. It's W of the Sungei Tebrau entrance and E of the Marine Police pier. No charges. The most conspic landmark is the shopping center and hotel complex nearby. Land your dinghy on the beach or the marine police dock where water is also available, but do check that using the pier is all right. Clear in with the authorities at the duty-free terminal at Stulang Laut about 1M E of the causeway which is also the ferry pier for Indonesia. You have to complete normal, land-based tourist immigration formalities with both Malaysian and Singaporean authorities again if you take the bus across the bridge to Singapore. If you take the train on into central Singapore the total for the trip is about US$2. Remember that many things that cost RM1 in Malaysia are likely to cost you S$1 (double), in Singapore. A bridge is planned over Selat Johor with approx 17m clearance and with a swinging or lifting bridge over the N 100m of the Causeway, then to be used only by the railway.
   The Bayu Puteri Marina is being built up the Sungei Tebrau at 01°30'·1N 103°47'·5E, but unfortunately it is beyond the road bridge linking Johor Bahru and Pasir Gudang, which has an air draft of 12m. The marina is to be the usual SE Asian villa-cum-country club development with the marina low in the pecking order. Unusually, the hope is to attract foreign buyers for second homes with special, easy residence permits. For more info on progress, contact Paradise Realty Sdn Bhd, tel 07 334 7378, Fax 07 334 7379, website www.marinaparadise.com
Page 211-3 Water Islands & Melaka There is a bridge across the entrance to the Melaka River connecting the foreshore to the N with reclamation S of the old town. Tying up to the Customs dock is now impossible for a yacht. The channel is very tight at any stage of tide and busy with ferries. Overhead clearance is approx 12m. Yachts can anchor off in quiet weather, but with ferry traffic it is pretty bouncy. Rumour has it that a marina is planned for Melaka town, but it is hard to see where because everywhere on the foreshore we visited is very shallow (<2m). In the Water Is the anchorage S of the jetties on P Besar is noisy with ferries for Melaka in daytime, but quiet enough at night, good holding in 5–7m, sand and mud, 02°06'·7N 102°20'·3E. Squalls can be alarming in unsettled weather during the Sumatra season. The resort ashore is reputedly now closed. There is also a village with a mosque. Provisions, phone and water are available. Note that Malaysian ferries carry orange flashing lights in this area as elsewhere; they are not hovercraft! An alternative anchorage is off P Upeh (02°11'·5N 102°12'·35E) where there is a resort and turtles come ashore to lay eggs.
   In the 1852 edition of James Horsburgh's India Directory, or Directions for sailing to and from the East Indies, China, etc., p.253, he says the islands get their name from the fact that good fresh water was available on the E side of P Besar.
   There has been very extensive development. High rise hotels and apartment complexes extend up and down the coast from Melaka. There is a most conspicuous new and very large refinery immediately N of the point with a huge loading pier extending into the strait and a buoyed channel leading to it. These days the old power station and its small pier at Tg Keling are, by comparison, rather inconspicuous.
* Page 213 Port Dickson, Admiral Marina 02°28'·75N 101°50'·40E
The approaches to Port Dickson require some care but are easier now the marks have been upgraded. Still, don't be tempted to cut corners, there are some nasty shoals and reefs. Coming from the S, once clear of Tg Rachado head for 02°27'·5N 101°50'·5E, thence head for 02°28'·2N 101°50'·1E. Steer approx 035°T to 02°28'·8N 101°50'·59E at which point you will be just outside the marina entrance.
   The whole coast here has been greatly developed and there are high rise resort buildings all the way from Port Dickson. However, the development of Admiral Marina and the moribund Port Dickson World marina are conspicuous, especially the green roof of the Admiral Marina club building.
   The marina entrance is lit Fl(2)G.2s5M and Fl(2)R.2s5M. Half a mile SSW of the marina on P Terumbu (locally called Submarine Island) is a new W Cardinal mark, Fl(9)10s at 02°27'·99N 101°50'·471E. You should give it a generous berth. Coming from the N, head for Port Dickson proper, thence leave P Arang Arang to port and head for 02°30'·0N 101°48'·0E, from there head for 02°28'·85N 101°49'·42E and then due E to 02°28'·8N, 101°50'·59E. Reverse these waypoint tracks to leave north or south.
   This is a very pleasant marina with 120 berths and good facilities. It is a bit short on hardstanding and haul-out, by crane, is more expensive than in Langkawi. Daily rates are a bit cheaper and discounts for long stays are negotiable. Fuel is available at the clean and very well run jetty in the outer basin but is also more expensive than in Langkawi. Check-in and check-out with the authorities in town is obligatory but the marina has applied for clearance facilities to be provided on site. For now, catch a bus (10 minutes' walk to the bus-stop from the marina) or hail a taxi. There are small local shops not far from the bus stop. Jabatan Laut is on the sea front in Port Dickson town. Good shopping and cheap internet access nearby. Express buses to KL and to Johor Bahru.
Call on VHF Ch14 on approach.
   There are anchorages either side of Tg (Cape) Rachado, S of Admiral Marina, suitable for either monsoon, though the anchorage on the N requires care. There is a wreck, with attendant wrecked tug, on the SE side of the cape. The anchorage we mark between P Arang Arang and Port Dickson is no longer really tenable, the whole area between the jetties and the reef at 02°31'·2N 101°48'·2E being occupied by moorings used by tugs and pilot boats.
   The other marina in the vicinity that we mention, PD World, has a dredged basin, about a quarter of a mile S of Admiral, but we understand the development is in the hands of the government receiver. Note if you are tempted to seek a freebie, that the approach to PD World can only be made from the N from off the sea wall of Admiral Marina and requires careful eyeballing.
* Page 213 Port Klang The slip at the Royal Selangor YC (RSYC) can take boats up to approx 25 tons, 60' LOA, 15' beam and 8' draft. The club has both a mechanic and a carpenter if you need repairs. RSYC has a website:www.rsyc.com.my; rmir@rsyc.com.my.
   Phone numbers have changed. All Port Klang numbers have a 1 after the initial 3, thus RSYC tel (0)3 31686964; fax (0)3 31688650. There have been rumours that RSYC might relocate to P Lumut (on the E side of the main S channel).
   The best source of charts is the Hydrographic Department at the Malaysian Navy HQ, new tel (0)3 20713595; fax (0)3 26987972. Unfortunately a spat over copyright, so we understand, is standing in the way of the new series of large-scale plans of Malaysian coastal waters, very useful for both E and W coast rivers, from seeing the light of day.
   For outboards, try Port Klang Outboard Centre, tel (0)3 31671353, Mercury Marine, tel 5191266 or the Suzuki dealer tel (03) 4413133; fax (0)3 4411491.
   If you don't want to go into Port Klang, and if the weather is quiet, there are possibilities off P Pintu Gedung at 02°53'·9N 101°14'·9E or you could try the entrance to the Selat Lumut (02°52'·5N 101°16'·5E) though note the bridge that prevents you reaching Port Klang through the back door. Alternatively, within Port Klang main port, some tolerance seems to be given to anchoring opposite the wharves in approx 03°02'·2N 101°20'·3E, but don't bank on it. The strait leading between P Tengah and P Selat Kering is deep but unmarked. It offers fair shelter, though there's a fair amount of fishing boat traffic. In Port Klang's northern approaches, there is the possibility of anchoring near P Angsa, but you need settled weather. A good anchorage has been tried under the light at the N end of One Fathom Bank (02°53'·2N 100°59'·8E) in 7m sand and mud. Another report is of an anchorage off Carey I (see BA charts 2153/3453) at 02°52'·2N 101°22'E. It's possible to motor up the river from here for about 9M.
Page 214 Lumut
Approaches The bearing on the leading line for the S entrance to the Dindings River has been omitted. It should read 331°.
Marinas and moorings The Lumut International Yacht Club (LIYC) 04°14'·14N 100°38'·25E, has 40 finger pontoons, at approx US$8 per day for 40' LOA. Power and water extra. There is room for a few boats to anchor off the marina, clear of commercial traffic, and take the dinghy in. Charges for use of their pontoons, showers and pool are reasonable @ US$1.50 per day. See the receptionist or Idris the dockmaster on arrival to sign in. All CIQ offices are now together at Seri Manjung. Take a Sitiawan bus from just outside the LIYC to do clearance.
   The facilities at Chan's, 2M up river, are a short distance from the mouth of the Sungei Sitiawan which runs eastwards opposite the isolated rock marked on the sketch, just N of the flour loading wharf. Chan's is on the N bank opposite an area now completely developed as an industrial zone. His moorings are very reasonable and therefore popular though it's not easy to get into either Sitiawan or Lumut from here. It is also possible to anchor. Next door to Chan's the Perak Yacht Club has its new HQ, but there is little there except some speedboat storage, a shack and a launching ramp. Opposite Mr Chan's in the industrial zone haul out by crane can be arranged at reasonable rates, including for long term. Note that it is pretty dusty. Depths in the river are generally over 10m, though there are shoal patches, especially a large one tending S from the upstream side of the entrance to Mr Chan's, half closing the mouth to the Sungei Sitiawan.
   The Kampung Bahru moorings are about 1M further up the main river on the E bank and the place seems generally moribund. The bridge has now been built across the Sungei Dinding, but rather than being just S of the entrance to the tributary on which Chan's lies, it is just N at 04°16'·85N 100°39'·58E, an elegant confection with eleven arches. The main channel under the highest point (approx 18m MHWS) is marked with a large red square on the pier to port, a large green triangle on the pier to starboard headed upstream. The centre of the arch is marked by a light Fl.
   S of the Sungai Sitiawan entrance in the Sungei Dindings a power line is being constructed crossing in latitude 04°16'·2N approx., from the new power station at Tg Senangin to the industrial zone. It looks like it will have at least 30m clearance.
   Diesel is available at LIYC's dock. Petrol from a service station in Lumut. There are good hardware shops in Sitiawan and Seri Manjung as well as in Lumut. There is now a supermarket in Lumut, as well as a good cybercafe not far from the LIYC. Postal services from Malaysia are still very reasonable and efficient.
Contacts
Lumut International Yacht Club Lot 4182 Jl Titi Panjang, Lumut 32200, Perak, tel (0)5 6837800; fax (0)5 6837700
Chan's (& the Perak Yacht Club) Mr Chan Mun Seng, 987 Taman Samudera, Sri Manjung 32040, Perak. Tel/fax (0)5 6881586 Kampung Bahru Mr Hj Zainal Bin Mat Isa, Chalet G-7 Kampung Bahru 32400, Air Tawar, Perak, tel/fax (0)5 6919754
* Page 217 Pinang
We found a lot of bulky flotsam while on passage between Langkawi and Pinang and again more S of Pinang off the Great Kra Bank. This is presumably outflow from the Pinang River.
   Liferaft servicing for yachts can be arranged at Ocean Success Sdn Bhd, 11 Church St Ghaut, tel 04 263 8352/5222. Flares also available.
   At Batu Maung (05°16'·9N 100°17'·5E) Pen Marine has a boatyard where you can haul out on a double railway slip or by crane, 204-B1 Block K, Km 12, Batu Maung, 11960 PINANG, tel (0) 4 6262628/698, handphone 0124848880, fax (04) 6262688, lbmsb@pc.jaring.my
   There are some berths (4m on seaward berths) for haulout customers as well but rates are comparitively steep and the pontoons are seriously collapsoid as well as tucked inside a mass of fish farms. Call for a quote.
   Just N of the village, Kampung Batu Maung, there is a temple marking the putative footprint of Admiral Zheng He (Cheng Ho), the great 15th century Chinese navigator who led fleets from China to India and Sri Lanka, the Persian Gulf, the E coast of Africa and the Red Sea (and if you believe Gavin Menzies 1421, though most informed historians don't, all round the world). It's a rather recent confection, dating from as long ago as 1995!
   Anchoring is possible further N inside P Jerejak in approx 05°18'·7N 100°18'E, N of the red buoy off, N of Sungei Keluang. The area is known as Sea Gate (after the factory just across the road inland) or Sri Pantai. There are hawker stalls and restaurants nearby. You can leave your dinghy with one of the small docks, though ask first, or on the beach.
   Most yachts still anchor in the junk anchorage, in approx 05°24'·75N 100°20'·5E though it is recommended to use a sampan ferry rather than your own dinghy. It keeps relations sweet and minimizes temptation, as well as giving your dinghy a longer lease of life. Facilities and shopping in Pinang are very good and it's well worth a visit. The Pinang Yacht Club is defunct.
Page 219 Langkawi
Approach The shoreline at Kuah has changed dramatically from what it was when the picture on the cover of the guide was taken. There are many new and dominant buildings but the most conspicuous and extraordinary landmark is the statue of an eagle (actually a Brahminy kite) on the foreshore NW of the ferry jetty. The mosque's golden domes, on the other hand, are practically invisible.
* Langkawi anchorages
At P Dayang Bunting you will now find that there is a swimming pool in the lake intended to keep the rest of the water clean, but since there are also banana boat rides, this obviously isn't the world's most eco-sensitive spot. Anchorages not marked on the plan (p.218) include fair weather anchorages off the beaches on the S side of P Dayang Bunting and off the E side of P Tuba. The other favourite is at Hole in the Wall, an enclosed harbour accessed via the channel marked on the plan of P Langkawi, NW of the P Langgun anchorage (no. 7) in approx 06°26'N, 99°52'·2E. It can be hard to find the deep channel. There is now a connecting channel from Hole in the Wall N to the creek exiting W of Tg Kemarong. The anchorage may have a short lease on life since rumour has it that the Royal Malaysian Navy is planning a development hereabouts. Pantai Kok is being developed as a marina (the basin is now dredged and the seawall in) so doesn't offer much of an anchorage. Otherwise you can anchor almost anywhere in quiet weather and otherwise choose your spot depending on prevailing wind and swell. Favourites are off the beach at Pantai Cenang, 06°17'N 99°43'·3E and the N (06°13'·8N 99°44'·2E) and NW sides (06°13'·9N 99°44'·8E) of P Singa Besar. Many can be rolly in the transition seasons and during the SW Monsoon.
* Langkawi marinas & moorings
Daily rates at the 2 main marinas – Royal Langkawi Yacht Club (RLYC) and Rebak – have been brought into line and both are now about US$10 per day. Both also offer good discounts for longer stays. RLYC 06°18'·2N 99°51'·1E has expanded to over 200 berths and is immediately S of the main ferry pier at Kuah. Call on VHF Ch 69 on approach. It's an attractive place, convenient for check-in and diesel is available. The new breakwater has greatly alleviated problems from ferry wash. All berths have power and water. If you prefer to anchor and dinghy in you can make an arrangement to pay a small fee to the office. There is a reciprocal arrangement with Royal Selangor YC and Gold Coast Marina in Hong Kong. Sunsail have their Langkawi base here with 13 boats. Amex cards are accepted.
   There are still moorings available off Kuah. You can also anchor off but the bottom is none too trustworthy thanks to development silt and yacht anchors ploughing what's under it to a loose mud. There is a fuel barge for ferries and fishing boats, which is happy to fuel yachts. It's cheaper than the RLYC.
   The newest facility is WaveMaster Langkawi Yacht Centre, currently managed and operated by Australians. They intend principally to service superyachts and have 2 large travel lifts (450 and 150 tonne) and climate controlled hangars. They are close to the Royal Malaysian Marine Police base in approx. 06°17'·5N 99°47'·7E. near Tg Lembong. There are some 20 berths, mostly for people using the haul out facilities. The intention is to have a club house with facilities.
   Between Rebak and Kuah you will see the Star Cruises berth at Awana Porto Malai 06°16'·6N 99°44'·1E. There is not much berthing available here, except for superyachts Mediterranean style stern-to the land-bound arm of the Star Cruises wharf. Contacts are included below if you're interested. You can also anchor off and there are a couple of moorings which may be free ENE of the NE end of the sea wall (approx. 06°16'·65N 99°44'·35E). The Awana Porto Malai will hold mail and parcels.
Rebak Marina, on P Rebak Besar is very popular with cruisers. It's best to contact them in advance if you plan a long stay because both the berths and the hardstanding are usually pretty full. Call on VHF Ch 69 on close approach. It is difficult to spot the marina from seaward till you are practically there. Masts are hidden by land. Depths at the entrance, 06°17'·44N 99°41'·7E, are shallow with 2–3m at low water. The entrance could be dangerous, or at least very iffy in a strong SW wind. Both entrance and channel are lit at night. Currently there are 128 wet berths with an extension planned.
   The fuel berth is on the way in but prices are higher than at the fuel barge or RLYC. There is a 65-ton travel lift. The hardstanding area has been enlarged, daily rates are the same as for wet berths. Both in and out of the water there is a 15% discount if you stay a week and a 30% discount for a month. Haul-out and re-launch cost a total of about US$340 for 40' LOA. Power wash is extra. You can DIY here but will be charged extra for equipment such as 'scaffolding', ladders and shore power. Mechanic Peter Jarrett on Yacht Marlow has been recommended. Services include e-mail and fax, storage locker rental, LPG refills. The marina is very well protected but therefore rather airless. Many live-aboards fit air conditioners. The marina is also under the new airport's flight path, but the noise is not obtrusive. The marina office will hold mail for you. DHL packages have to be collected in town. There is a ferry service, but not to Kuah. It goes across to a pier in Port Langasuka.
   On the E side of P Langkawi, in Port Langasuka, a large artificial harbour built to protect the airport runway extension, there is the Langasuka Boat Club. It lies behind the three-part breakwater, entrance at 06°20'·5N 99°41'·9E. Don't try to come through either of the other two entrances unless you are in a power boat, they have bridges over them with limited air draught. The odd doodad standing in the approach to the club at 06°20'·188N 99°42'·583E is an old tide gauge used when constructing the breakwaters. Note too another nondescript object potentially hazardous to topsides at 06°20'·301N 99°42'·679E.
   There are 30 solid moorings attached to concrete blocks. The drawback is that the entire area is shoal. Drawing 2·3m we went aground shoving our keel 0·5m into the soft mud at low water springs. We were lucky. Another boat sat on its mooring block, though that is unusual. Note that although it looks very well protected, life in Langasuka can get very lively indeed in strong SW winds. However, it is normally a peaceful spot and cruisers have left their boats safely here for protracted periods. Note that if you do, when you get back the mud is likely to have removed all your antifouling.
   There is a dinghy dock, a very primitive shower, free drinking water, a bar and a pontoon for loading heavy gear aboard yachts. There is a slip for shoal draughters and some repairs can be done. The nearby village of Padang Matsirat has shops and a market and the airport is very close. Wholesalers will deliver and you can buy duty-free beer at the club. Cruisers using the moorings can also use the internet facilities and the pool at the nearby Langasuka Hotel where they can get discounts for meals. Rates at the boat club are very reasonable at about US$2.50 per night, US$14 per week and US$50 per month. Call on VHF Ch 69.
* A new marina is under construction at Pantai Kok, the basin is now dredged and the seawalls in. It will have 200–300 berths.
Contacts
Langasuka Boat Club No 32 Kg Bawah, Padang Matsirat, 07100 Langkawi, Kedah Darul Aman, Malaysia; LBC@sail-malaysia.com; tel (0)4 9559631; fax (0) 4 9553013
Rebak Marina, PO Box 125, Kuah, 07007 Langkawi; resort@rebakmarina.com, tel (0) 4 9665566; fax (0) 4 9669973
Royal Langkawi Yacht Club, tel (0)4 9664078; fax (0) 4 9665078, wicky@langkawiyachtclub.com, www.langkawiyachtclub.com
Awana Porto Malai, tel (0) 4 9555111, fax (0)4 9555222, www.awana.com.my
WaveMaster Langkawi Yacht Centre Bukit Malut, Mukim Kedawang, 7000 Langkawi, tel (0)4 9671230, 9671500; fax (0)4 9671231, 9671600; info@wmlyc.com
* Langkawi services
In Kuah services are good. Once you have checked in walk to town along the pleasant waterfront. The first ATM is at the ferry pier, the first grocery is at the Langkawi Fair Shopping Centre. Better shopping in the town centre, e.g. Teow Soon Huat, Lee Ann's, Cold Storage, Pok Bros & Loong's. Bigger supermarkets are out in Matsirat and there are workshops on the road out. Good hardware & paint available in Matsirat, e.g. a teak treatment called Sunscreen by ICI, like Cetol but much cheaper. There are plenty of cyberafés to choose from in Kuah. Alualu, which also sells fishing tackle, was good in 2003. Joe's Pharmacy, 111 Main Road is recommended. There's a new chandlery, Peninsula Yachts Asia, 106 Jl Persiaran Mutiara. Marine supplies also available from Cinho Trading on the main road about 2M NW of the town. Liferafts can be serviced in Langkawi for a very reasonable price. Ask at Cinho for the address. If you need flares you may need to go to Penang (see above). If you need lumber or a cabinet maker there's a yard about 3M east of the town. There's a Suzuki outboard shop on the NW side of town on the main road and a Yamaha shop near KFC. For electronic repairs and parts try Sega Elektronik on Persiaran Mutiara. There's a refrigeration engineer, Michael Chu, at Imeac engineering, north of Port Langasuka. The PO is at the Lada Centre next to Samudra. Jimmie's has closed and the latest yachtie hangout is the Golden Beach Thai Restaurant in town. Ask here for the latest news, e.g. where to rent cars. You can do this informally for about US$10 per day. SK Intertrade in Kuah have books and charts on sale. They are at 8, Jl Pandak Mayah 1, Pekan Kuah, They do xeroxes. PLEASE DO NOT ASK THEM TO PHOTOCOPY OUR BOOKS, IT'S THEFT.
Page 220 Cruising W Peninsular Malaysia
P Kukup The anchorage is between P Kukup and the mainland. Note that there are immigration facilities here to service the fast ferries across to Tg Balai, P Kundur and P Kerimun Besar in Indonesia. You will be expected to clear in if you have come direct from Singapore. The approach is beaconed once you are past the large kelong just W of Tg Piai. From 01°17'·77N 103°26'·06E pass the starboard beacon (fl.3s8M) on approx 355°M towards the port beacon (fl.4s5M, radar reflector and transponder). Needless to say, don't try it at night unless you're a local. Anchor in approx. 01°18'·85N 103°26'·6E, 50m, 3–4m beyond the stilt village. The channel is very busy and noisy and full of fish farms and the only reason for going here is probably to eat at the seafood restaurants on the mainland shore. The easiest exit is to go back the way you came. However, you can exit N'wards generally holding to the mainland shore, via 01°19'·94N 103°26'·25E, then 01°22'·86N 103°24'·97E to 01°24'·47N 103°23'·7E and 01°26'·98N 103°21'·72E reaching clear, deep water between P Pisang and the beacon off Pontian Kechil in 01°27'·95N 103°20'·82E. Least depth should be around 4m.
P Pisang is actually a group of four islands. This is an excellent first stop after Singapore or to poise yourself to make Changi in a daylight run. Anchor either side of the main island, under the light (fl.10s22M), depending on the prevailing wind. On the N of the island in S sector winds try on the bank at 01°28'·476N 103°15'·244E in 6·5m good holding in very sticky, mucky mud. Do not be tempted by the bay to the east, there is a scour hole there with over 10m and you have to get very close in to find better depths. In the NE Monsoon the best bet is the bay S of the light in approx. 01°27'·7N 103°15'E, 5m to 6m, mud. Access to the lighthouse, which is run by the MPA (Singapore), is via a pier on the SE side.
   Another recommended anchorage, well offshore but OK in settled weather is off Tg Tohor at 01°51'N 102°45'·5E.
There is a second bridge proposed at Muar but at present the anchorage is certainly feasible and the town pleasant with every sort of shop you could want. Entrance from 02°03'·27N 103°30'·22E, thence due E to light (Fl.10s5M) whereafter follow the river. The entrance is normally buoyed. The Jabatan Laut is next to the conspicuous pink and blue customs building on the waterfront. Anchor below the bridge but upstream of the cargo wharf and ferry pier (ferries to Indonesia) (02°02'·9N 102°34'·1E), or on the N side of the river off the conspic. blue building with a cupola (02°03'·0N 102°33'·8E).
Kuala Selangor (03°18'·35N 101°12'·5E) is shallow in the approaches as you cross the bar on a roughly NE heading, but contrary to previous reports, deepens up once inside. The river is full of rubbish. It's a good 3–3·5M to the town where you anchor below the bridge. There's a collapsoid pier on the shore you can land at, though it's submerged at HW. The old town is now a bit one horse, most of the action having moved about 1M down the main road towards Port Klang.
The Sungei Bernam (03°48'·7 100°46'·3E) is very busy indeed, mostly with fishing boats servicing the fish processing plants at Hutan Melintang. You can get all the way up to the bridge at Sabak (10m), but it isn't really worth it. A recent visitor says have a bright anchor light if you overnight in the river.
   A bridge (12m, 03°58'·07N 100°58'·42E) blocks access to Teluk Intan (Anson) via the Sungei Perak (entrance, buoyed, 04°03'5N 100°39'·4E). Just below Teluk Intan, if you can get under the bridge, there are some boatyards that haul coaster sized vessels on slips. The river is busy.
   Watch out for fish traps all along this coast. We had a good look at the Sembilan Is. They are a wonderful stop but really only in settled weather and as day anchorages.
   We can recommend the anchorage at Pasir Bogak on Pangkor. Note that depths are much greater than charted E of the rocks between the main island and Pangkor Laut Kechil where there is a 30m (not 12m!) deep scour hole. Beware strong tidal streams and overfalls in the channel between P Pangkor Laut, P Simpan and in the channel between P Simpan and Turtle Rocks. Public minibuses ply regularly on Pangkor and it is simple to get to Pangkor main town for shopping. There are internet facilities in Pangkor town too. 12M N of Lumut, between the mainland coast and P Talang you can anchor in approx 04°25'·2N 100°34'·9E.
   The other fascinating river anchorage, worth exploring depending if you have shoal draught, is at Port Weld (04°50'·15N, 100°37'·5E) in the Kuala Sepetang. This is an incredible place with stilt warehouses built out over the river edge to service the shellfish trade. It has obviously been the mainstay for years since many pavements, parking places and most of the river bank are composed entirely of clam shells.
   There are 1 or 2 moorings for yachts, depending on size, on the SE side of P Payar, in the marine park SE of Langkawi. You don't have to get prior permission to visit but if you pick up a mooring go and see the park rangers ashore to let them know how long you want to stay. It can be rolly here – indeed sometimes untenable – and uncomfortably close to the buoys off the beach in a S'ly. It is too deep to anchor. The park is small but there are a couple of charming short walks on prepared paths through the jungle to the top of the island, from where there are good views to be had.
* Page 224 Thailand formalities
The good news is that boats are now allowed to stay in Thai waters for up to 12 months without being liable for import duty. If you want to stay longer you have to apply to Customs in Bangkok. There is a new 'One Stop' clearance facility in building near the root of the Ao Chalong jetty. Immigration clearance charges are now approximately US$7 per boat plus $0.50 per 'passenger'· Any crew member who may want to fly out of Thailand should be cleared in as a 'passenger' and not as crew otherwise they are treated as seamen. Signing off seamen can be difficult and expensive. Visas are normally valid for 30 days. The entry fee will cost you double if you arrive at the weekend. Customs charge about US$2.50. All the usual lengthy paperwork is to be expected. A fee of US$7 per week has been introduced by the Harbourmaster for boats cruising the Phuket area.
   The situation fluctuates with regard to checks made by harbourmasters on boats at anchor. Yachts on their way through the Ko Terutao National Park and other offshore islands on their way to Phuket should, in theory, check in at Satun first if they want to anchor on the way. In practice they rarely do. Equally, if you clear out of Phuket or Krabi and head for Langkawi, you should, officially, not stop on the way. If that's what you wish to do, you should clear out of Satun. If you don't play things this way, you risk being questioned and possibly fined by the Krabi harbourmaster who seems to enjoy making waves. On the other hand, this is a sporadic nuisance rather than a regular thing, so you can decide for yourself. It has to be said that the whole clearance business in Thailand is a bit of a minefield, though more relaxed now than it used to be.
* Page 225 Satun
It's becoming increasingly popular to check in here where the regulations are less stringently enforced.
Page 225 Kantang In the outer approaches to Kantang the anchorage on the W side of Koh Muk has been recommended, 6–8m near the Emerald Cave, despite the tripper boats. Koh Kradan to the S has moorings off the S end. See also p.231.
* Page 225 Krabi On the E side of Ao Nang Bay, N of Phra Nang, there are some moorings which may be available for visitors. An airport has recently been opened at Krabi with direct flights from Phuket and to Trang.
Page 226-30 Phuket
Anchorages, marinas and other facilities
There are 2 new long jetties at Ao Chalong to which you can take dinghies at low tide. Ask for info about charges at the Ao Chalong Yacht Club, 300m N of the jetty where you can also do email and send and receive faxes. Delete references to Quantum Marine and Phuket Yacht Club (in Nai Harn Bay). The latter is no longer HQ for the King's Cup regatta.
   Alternative, weather dependent anchorages are at Ko Hai, S of Ao Chalong. Ban Nit 'marina' has been sold and is apparently no longer popular but you can still anchor off. The bay is known as Panwa Bali.
* Phuket Boat Lagoon Best to make your entry at high tide unless your boat is shallow draft, the beaconed channel (keep the beacons several metres to port) isn't always perfectly dredged and there are some high spots. At LW the shallowest spot is only about 1·5–1·7m. The channel starts in Ao Tha Rua at 07°58'·65N 98°24'·9E. The harbourmaster is Mr Khun Thana, email bolabowa@e-mail.in.th. Sample rates in mid 2003 for 40' LOA were US$10 per day and US$235 per month plus 7% VAT. There are now 180 berths and hardstanding for 80. The travel lift costs about US$315, one way, for a 40' boat, plus chocking. Hardstanding charges are the same as for regular berthing. They sometimes listen out on VHF Ch 71 & 67. Internet access now available as well as other facilities including several restaurants. Phuket Marina Yacht Services has closed down and Yacht Solutions, a yacht service agency, operates now. Contact david@yachtsolutions.net.
   The moorings shown on the plan on the E side of the island at Ao Po, E of the Nakha islands have gone. There is an admission charge if you use the jetty on Ko Nakha Noi where there is a pearl fishing farm but you can anchor S of it on the W side. On the W coast of Ko Yao Hyai there are weather dependent anchorages near Abu Labu, inside the headland at Laem Ton To and further S, behind Koh Nui. Similarly at Koh Mai Thon. The resort permits access to the island via its jetty on the E side and there is a path across the island.
   The 'superyacht' marina project announced last year has stalled.
* The Yacht Haven has pontoons for about 170 boats, with shore power and water, fuel dock, internet access, showers and toilets, restaurant and bar. The marina will give directions on how to do CIQ clearance. Call on VHF Ch 68. The entrance is accessible at all states of tide but note that there is a drying shoal patch in the approach marked by a lit buoy. The entrance itself also has a sector light. Enter from the N between red and green buoys. Berthing has gone up considerably, despite the favourable exchange rate. Daily berthing is approx US$12.50 and US$281 per month for 40' LOA, plus power, water & 7% VA. Discounts if you stay over 30 days. For more info contact managers, Zara Tremlett & Nick Wyatt, info@yacht-haven-phuket.com; www.yacht-haven-phuket.com
Page 229 Possible anchorages in the approach to the Yacht Haven are off Ko Wah Yai at the entrance to Ao Phangna.
   The Cruiser Island Resort on Koh Lon, 07°47'·7N 98°22'·6E welcomes yachts. If you visit you may be able to use a mooring, tel 076 383210, thitty@cruisermart.com, www.cruiserislandresort.com. Showers, bathroom, restaurant at the resort. Dinghy access is awkward at very low tides. Fuel and water are available at the Koh Lon jetty, but as with the Ao Chalong jetty there are only vertical pilings and lots of wash from passing traffic. Resort boats offer free rides to Ao Chalong.
Ratanachai Slipway Co Ltd do haul-out for yachts and have a good reputation for being clean and well run, though their main business is commercial vessels. They are recommended for repairs and have good rates, which they quote in advance. Contact Jill, tel 252852/210246/212443; fax 212443.
* Page 230 Phuket Town. Banks Sails now has a Phuket service loft, tel (076) 345 203, fax (076) 345 204, rn@sails.com but it is reputed to be pricey, as is Rolly Tasker.
   There is a Tesco hypermarket inland in Phuket island now, which makes provisioning easy. We have recommendations for upholstery done by Jin & Pong, tel 01 894 2904 and for woodwork done by Nai & Toe, tel 01 9702 687, 076 282 214.
   If you have any problems with your gas stove, the Phuket LP Gas Center may be able to solve them. They are opposite the PO at 197 Thalang Rd, tel (076) 211091/211508; phuketlpgcenter@yahoo.com
Page 230-1 Cruising S of Phuket The W coast around Ko Lanta comes well commended with anchorages off the small resorts in Ko Kradan, Ko Muk and Ko Ngai. Koh Babu on the inside of Ko Lanta Hyai is shallow but quiet, usable in both seasons. The anchorage between Ko La Dang (Adnag) and P Lipis (Ko Lipe) now has moorings and there is National Park HQ on Lipis. Small amounts of water and fuel available.
   Good anchorage reported in the bay on the N side of Phi Phi Don at 07°44'·78N 98°46'·1W.
Page 232 Ao Phangna There is a rock, just covered at low tide, off the E tip of Ko Daeng Yai, S of the anchorage marked on the plan.
Page 232 N of Phuket A small fee is collected from those using the moorings by the park rangers in the Similans and there are now moorings in the Surin Is too, a much quieter option for cruisers but also subject to modest charges.
Andaman Is If you have enough time to obtain visas from the Indian Embassies in Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur, you can now visit the Andamans without taking part in an organised regatta. The system for processing visits is slow and you need to be patient and courteous. You need an Indian visa endorsed with permission to visit the Andamans. A 3-month visa is suitable and will allow the authorities to grant you a double entry visit of a maximum of 30 days. Once you have obtained visas you should fax the yacht's details and a crew list to the Chief Secretary to arrive before you do: Andaman & Nicobar Is, Port Blair, fax +91 (0)3192 20656. Give your approximate date of arrival. Night entry into Port Blair harbour is not permitted, so plan your passage to make your approach in the morning. Call on VHF Ch16 or 6220kHz during the day or on 3632.5kHz between 1900 and 0700, to advise authorities of your arrival when about 12M out. Formalities take half a day to complete. Harbour dues are payable. You will be told of the permitted overnight anchorages. Currency is not available at ATM's but you can exchange US$ cash. Fuel, water, provisions and repairs are available and cheap. See Rod Heikell's Indian Ocean Cruising Guide for more detail.
* Page 233 Chart Agents
Note that the phone and fax numbers for Motion Smith in Singapore should be prefixed with a figure 6. Malaysian chart agents, the Hydrographic Dept of the Malaysian Navy, sell charts for about US$9.50, tel (03) 26921333 ext 3595, fax (03) 26987972. Motion Smith, in Petaling Jaya also sell Malaysian charts, tel (03) 7874 3422, fax (03) 7874 3414. The Malaysian Tide Tables are also worth having but they can be found in the daily paper, The Star, on Mondays. They are also usually available at the Jabatan Laut, for example in Langkawi. Motion Smith are no longer at the listed address in Bangkok.
Page 235 Travel guides
New editions are published regularly, often with extensive new information.
Page 238 Addresses, Indonesia, Agents
It has been reported that Kustarjono Prodjolalito is no longer responding to requests for CAITs. His associates in Bali and Kupang continue to offer the service.
* Page 239 Addresses
All Singapore phones and fax numbers, except handphones, are now prefixed by a figure 6, eg Indonesian Embassy tel 6737 7422.
The prefix for international dialling from Phuket is 001 except for Malaysian numbers which are prefixed 007.
* Page 239-40 Regional Races
From Australia to Indonesia
Organisers hope to run the Darwin to Kupang and Bali Race annually from now on, leaving Darwin late July/early August. Contact mail@darwinbalirace.com
Thailand The King's Cup regatta HQ is now at the Kata Beach Resort Hotel, tel +66 76 383 325, fax +66 76 383 326, website www.kingscup.com, e-mail Kingscup@loxinfo.co.th
Page 242 Index new entry for Heina Atoll, p.111
Page 246 Index new entry for Wuvulu, p.111