Arica Desert to Tierra del Fuego
RCC Pilotage Foundation
1st Edition, 1998
ISBN 0 85288 40 87
Supplement No 5 cumulative to October 2002
Much new information has been collected since the guide was published, especially in the last year during which work on a second edition has begun. Due to the sheer volume of new material, this supplement incorporates the previous supplement and only limited new material thought to be of great significance. It is hoped that the second edition will be published within the next year.
Please note that accents are not inserted over upper case letters. The word 'Península' has been used in both an English and a Spanish context; where it occurs in Spanish it should appear as 'península'.
Spelling errors in the positional maps have not been corrected.
All positions must be treated with caution. Where a position is known to be based on a GPS or a chart reading, this is mentioned but note that we do not know the data base of the system used to report the position. There are many instances where charts disagree with GPS and with each other. (Contributors providing corrections should indicate whether their positions are Chart or GPS and the datum used by their GPS.)
The RCC Pilotage Foundation is a charitable organisation staffed by unpaid volunteers. The scope of its world-wide research depends on funds generated by sales of its publications. It also depends upon corrections and additions provided by readers. In the interests of the yachting community, please assist the Foundation by sticking to the laws of copyright and not handling illegal photocopies and by contributing factual and accurate corrections and new information for incorporation into the texts.
Corrections and Additions
In all instances: Golfo de Penas, not Peñas.
In all instances: Islotes Fairway, not Islote Fairway.
Page v Preface
Plainsong was sailed by Francis Hawkings. The correct spellings for Pile, Goaourit, Beauvillen, Monier, Landrein and Pahuk are Pyles, Gauvrit, Puvilland, Mounier, Landreth and Pashuk. Ardizi is, correctly, Ardrizzi.
There are also many other sources who, over the decades and indeed the centuries, have provided information which has been absorbed into the general body of knowledge and passed on through both official and unofficial channels. Though impossible to acknowledge every single contributor, it is possible to remember them in their anonymity, to record the gratitude of the cruising fraternity and to raise a glass to 'absent friends'.
Page 2 Geography
For Raper (on page 3) read Ráper.
Page 3 Weather Systems
After the paragraph on rachas, add:
Many anchorages have adequate security to the NW but are less good to the SW. It should be kept in mind that there may be a strong but usually short-lived SW'ly change following the passage of a front; a front can pass quickly and go through overnight. The better anchorages are sheltered from N through to SW. The best are those where wind direction is not seriously modified by mountains.
Page 4 The Pacific inshore route
Local advice concerning the prevailing Southerlies is that November and December are the months of strongest winds 'Rataplan' and 'Mist' travelling South in these months experienced no diurnal respite from the southerlies south of Caldera. Southerly wind strength varied between 15 to 25 knots with, occasionally, 30–35 knots (off Caldera, Puerto Huasco and Valdivia).
Page 5 Across the South Pacific
Some vessels (2 in 2000) choose to cross in January. Weather experienced was mostly mild with a lot of easterly winds as far south as 50 degrees.
Canal Chacao is not so fearful. The approach is easy; the lighthouse at Punta Corona willingly gives information on tide times and the direction of flow in the channel via VHF. Also there is a suitable anchorage in which to shelter and await suitable conditions for traversing the canal.
Note: SHOA have changed the numbering of most charts, especially in the area south of Puerto Montt. Many of the numbers given in the guide will be incorrect. The yachts So-long and Finte have provided a conversion table that is given at the end of these corrections.
Chilean, British and US navies swap information and that obtained by one can be expected to appear in another's publication. The Chilean authority is the Servicio Hidrográfico y Oceanográfico de la Armada (SHOA). SHOA charts are about the same price as those of the British Hydrographic Office. They are obtainable from their office in Valparaíso, at chart agencies (agencias de cartas) in major ports (including Puerto Montt and Punta Arenas), through UK chart agencies (but that takes months) and the Armchair Sailor Bookshop, Newport, Rhode Island which often has the Atlas Hidrográfico (see below) in stock.
SHOA produces its own Pilots but the BA Pilots to S America, NP 6 & 7, are comprehensive.
A very useful website is http://www.shoa.cl from where the complete catalogue of Chilean charts, which includes notes on renumbering, electronic charts and corrections for varying datums in use with Satellite Navigation, is available free. It would be wise to have a copy on board.
The large-scale Chilean charts are a necessary adjunct to this guide if going S of Puerto Montt. SHOA's Atlas Hidrográfico de Chile contains all the Chilean charts and is priced at US$120; it represents remarkable value for money. The charts are reduced, beautifully printed and clear but a really good magnifying glass, preferably with an interior light, is necessary. The atlas as a whole is difficult to handle in a seaway but individual sheets can be abstracted for chart work. New editions of the Atlas are published regularly. As new charts are constantly being added, particularly around the Chonos Archipelago and in the far S, it is important to have the latest edition (presently December 2001) and the catalogue should be consulted for the most recent charts. The charts in the Atlas are not intended for navigation and are therefore NOT corrected later than their date of publication (the chart's publication date, not that of the atlas). This means that lights are frequently not shown nor have different characteristics from the Light List and that additions and changes, such as the placing of overhead cables are omitted.
The armada has been producing many new charts in recent years particularly in the far S. Older charts have many inaccuracies, especially in longitude. Discrepancies of up to 2 miles have been observed between GPS and charts. It would be wise not to try and compare between new and old charts and to use new charts in conjunction with GPS wherever possible. SHOA 3000, the chart catalogue, has a series of corrections to apply to correct different datum's to WGS84, useful as these are it seems that in many cases the errors are in the original plotting of positions rather than in the datum used.
The PC tide programme WXtide32, covers the whole world and proved to be accurate to within 10 minutes between Canal Chacao and Laguna San Rafael. However the tidal stations are mainly in the outer areas and not in the mainland inlets.
Page 6 Search and rescue
The armada maintains 2 dedicated search and rescue helicopters (daytime only), one at Puerto Montt and the other at Punta Arenas or Puerto Williams. These are painted grey with a red stripe, carry VHF and may call a vessel on Ch 16.
To avoid loss of papers when going ashore, it is advisable to carry photocopies of ships papers and passports. The later have always proved acceptable to the armada or as ID for credit card use. The only time the original document is required is when renewing a visa in the passport. A yacht that had their papers stolen on a bus found the carabineros (police) and armada were helpful, it was their own authorities that were most difficult.
Warning - Salmoneras
At present these are only found in the area between Puerto Montt and Seno Aisen. A vast expansion of the industry is currently in progress, by 2003 they can be expected all the way down to the Magellan Straights. Salmoneras adversely affect anchorages aesthetically and by the large amount of thoughtless disposal of non-biodegradable waste that pollutes adjacent waters. In 2001 one yacht was nearly lost after fouling both propeller and rudder, during a gale, on drifting nets from abandoned installations. Active salmon installations do not present a navigation hazard but the practice of cutting loose old salmon pens and allowing them to drift into adjacent beaches and coves appears quite widespread. Beware of trailing ropes and nets. It is to be regretted that such an important aspect of Chile's national economy with obvious benefits in terms of employment and development of the local infrastructure is also associated with avoidable pollution.
Page 7 Communications
Most stations appear to use USA VHF channels rather than International channels. This is not a problem on most commonly used channels like 16 and 14 but some, like channel 22 (used for calling non-official shore stations), are different. Some hand-held VHF units are capable of switching between the two standards.
SSB radio is not mandatory for cruising in Chile, only VHF is required.
For buzon read buzón.
Chile is moving ahead very rapidly in this area. Larger centres have several different places for connection. Look for an 'Entel' Centro de Llamados with Internet facilities or for a cybercafe.
The full title of 'Guía Turistica del Chile' is 'Turistel - Guía Turistica de todo Chile' but is commonly known as 'Guía Turistel'. It is said to be available from news-stands, bus and rail stations. The English version, ISBN 956-7206-03-1, is hard to find within Chile and should be acquired before arrival. It is a good tourist guide. The present editor has tried unsuccessfully to locate a copy in any language.
Page 8 Health
Rabies is not common but is present in Chile. If bitten by dogs or wild animals medical advice should be sought. There is a big problem with wandering dogs. Note that Hanta virus may pose a significant threat to hikers in Patagonia where it is spread by aerosolised mouse droppings in shelters or mouse infested accommodation.
Page 9 1·1 Arica
The entrance to the yacht club anchorage is shoal south of the centre of the channel and towards the North shore. Call the club on Ch 16 and they will send out a launch to lead you in.
Club mooring buoys are no longer available to visiting yachts. Anchor fore and aft in rock. The club launch will place you and help. The anchorage requires caution because of the harbour surge and rocky bottom. The anchoring charge in 2000 was $10.00 US/day which includes a free launch service ashore.
Andino Ship Supply Co. owner Leonardo D. Moreno, speaks English and is very helpful to visitors. He has a connection to West Marine USA. Andino is located at No. 050 Manuel Rodriguez. Phone/Fax 058-257308, VHF Ch 15, e-mail email@example.com.
Telephone No. of Club de Déportes Nauticos is now 253 847.
Page 11 Tourism
The pre-Colombian Museo Arqueologico San Miguel de Azapa is worth visiting. The 12km bus route from Arica passes enormous petroglifos (stone drawings).
The telephone Area Code should read '58'.
Page 12 1·3 Iquique
The three-day Altiplano tour offered by most tour companies takes in a very impressive variety of scenery and wildlife. Try 'Avitour' at 997 Baquedano, phone (56) 473775. Owner Marco Muhlenbrock, who speaks English, leads many of these tours himself and is very good.
Also recommended is Sergio Cortez at Bolivar and Ramirez. Sergio has a shop that does stainless and aluminium welding, machine work and fabrication. His Altiplano tours are a 'hobby' and he can tailor the tour to suit tastes – including land sailing – and numbers.
After rounding the breakwater there is a light, not on the chart, (bearing 160°) marking the east end of a reef. Passing this light to starboard a set of leading marks on shore, not on the chart, (bearing 240°) lead in to yacht club marina. (Local folklore is that the marks were moved slightly during roadwork and should be left slightly open making your track south of the marks). Carry on to the marina. The channel has a minimum depth of 1·7m at low water; it then runs along the end of the wharves close in. The club monitors Ch 80 and is very helpful. This harbour and yacht club is the only one on the North Coast were it is comfortable to over winter. Water and electricity on the wharves, fuel by truck with long hose at rates slightly below that in service stations. Club members are very friendly and helpful. In 2000 the rate in the marina was three free days and then $5.00US/day.
Yachts of up to 14 tons have been lifted out by crane onto a hardstanding area at the club. Crane rates are $80.00 US/hr.
Page 14 1·6 Mejillones del Sur
Alternative anchorage can be found in front of sand beach approximately 3/4 mile WNW of the village in 10m.
Page 14 1·6A Isla Santa Maria/Caleta Constitution
BA Charts 3071, 3077
Enter the bay to the north of Isla Santa Maria and anchor on east side of the island in front of sand beach in 3–5m. Well protected anchorage – exactly on the Tropic of Capricorn – and good shellfish diving.
Page 14 1·7 Antofagasta
Entry and Anchorage
Enter between two rock breakwaters (new, not on charts) marked by red and green lights on 3m high steel towers on a heading of about 130°. Yacht club marina is immediately to starboard. Tie between mooring buoys and wharf. For yachts more than 35ft. LOA it is recommended that a bow anchor be laid out as the mooring buoys are too close to the wharf. On shore, behind the marina, is a 17-storey blue and cream building. Considerable harbour surge. In 2000, the first three days were free, daily rates were unavailable from the club at that time.
The club has a travel-lift, rates were 'under review'.
Page 15 1·9 Caleta Blanco (Encalada)
Anchor just north of the mooring buoys in 8m, sand. A secure anchorage.
Page 16 1·10 Puerto Taltal
There is a light (not shown on the chart) placed on the headland Fl.5s on a tower with a red band.
Page 16 1·11 Caleta Cinfuncho
Anchor to the East of the fishing boats in about 10m on sand. There is a wharf for landing a dinghy.
The hill above the village makes a pleasant walk. People have left their names with pebbles and shells on top. A good beach with pleasant walking sometimes used by the military for landing exercises.
Page 17 1·12A Caleta Flamenco
Charts Chile 200, 206
Anchor just to the East of moored fishing launches and in front of rocks in about 8 to 10m. Land on sandy beach between rocks marked by fishing dinghies drawn up on shore.
Two small grocery stores and some restaurants in the village.
Page 17 1·13 Caldera
Black Buoy at 27°02'S 70°50'W, Fl.G.10s, on 'Ra Chango' not shown on chart.
The yacht club has free mooring buoys for visitors. There is a wharf to land dinghies.
'Maestranzas Navals SA' a commercial yard just to the west of the club has a large lift and can handle yachts. Contact owner Luis Herrera at (052) 315200.
Page 18 1·13A Caleta Pajonal
Caldera–48, Carrizal Bajo–24
Charts Chile 300, 303
Well-protected anchorage. Fishermen advise that in rough conditions the swell can build up in the shallow (6m) water to the E of the mooring buoys and to anchor to W of the buoys in 11m.
Page 18 1·14 Puerto Carrizal Bajo
A small village with a couple of small grocery stores and a restaurant.
A light on I. Carrizal (GpFl(3)5s) is not shown on the chart.
Anchor either N (7m) or S (4m) of fishermens' buoys.
Page 19 1·15 Puerto Huasco
A copper-processing plant produces a considerable amount of airborne dust. This is a very dirty anchorage.
Page 19 1·15A Isla Damas
Charts Chile 302, 300
Carrizal–74, Cruz Grande–18
A National Reserve of enchanting beauty. Paths have been marked and laid with seashells. Nesting site for Humbolt penguins, also dolphins, sealions and sea birds. Cactus and desert flowers bloom behind white sand beaches. Gorgeous anchorage protected from the prevailing southerly quadrant winds.
A light (Fl.5s) on Pta Nord is not shown on the chart. Anchor in Caleta Lynch in 8m on sand.
Page 19 1·15B Caleta Cruz Grande
Chile 300, 306
An abandoned iron ore shipping port that saw considerable development including a large dock for ore vessels blasted out of solid rock and now used by many fishing boats.
Basic provisions in the pleasant village 'Chungungo', some restaurants and bars. Two armada ratings live in the ex-port manager's house beautifully sited on a promontory above the bay. They are not part of the 'Zarpe' system and offered use of their showers. They do monitor Ch 16 and will take a QTH.
The two silver fuel-storage tanks mentioned in the Admiralty Pilot NP7 have been painted in camouflage by the armada and are just slightly more difficult to see. Either moor using the large armada buoy or anchor near by in about 10m. Best to land the dinghy in the ore dock and walk into town.
Page 19 1·17 Coquimbo-Bahia Herradura De Guayacan
Yachts have over wintered here but be prepared to move to the NE corner of the anchorage in strong winter Northerlies. In 2000 the yacht club gave two weeks free in the anchorage, and then 15000 pesos/month. The club has hot showers, a restaurant and monitors VHF Ch 68.
The fish farm on the plan is expanding E and N. Approach directions in Guide still apply but use caution and watch for semi-submerged buoys. The harbour remains easy to enter.
Page 21 1·20 Bahía Quintero
Chart title should read Quintero, not Qintero.
Page 22 1·21 Higuerillas
A very friendly club. Call the club on VHF Ch 68 and they will come out to direct you to the appropriate mooring buoy outside the club basin. The completion of a new breakwater in 2001 may allow room for visitors in a new basin with increased protection. No charge for mooring or hot showers for yachts in transit.
Page 23 1·22 Valparaíso
Area Code is 38
Page 24 1·24 Bahía Coliumo
Position should read: 36°32'S 72°55'W
Chart Chile 500
Alternative anchorage can be found in front of the village (Dichato) in 5–10m on sand. Basic provisions and a budget fish restaurant.
Page 25 1·25 Talcahuano
The fishmeal plant is closed and the harbour no longer reeks. It is a little dirty from airborne dust from shore. The Municipal club no longer has moorings but remain helpful and friendly. Anchor in the basin in mud. Land at fisherman's wharf or yacht club. Fuel at a station across the street.
Page 26 1·26A Caleta Queule
Chart Chile 608
Anchor in the bay in 5–10m on sand. Small village with basic provisions and a fuel station 1/2 mile up river (accessible only by dinghy). Good protection from S winds.
Page 26 1·28 Valdivia,
Club de Yates telephone No. is now 213 028. Mail will be held but write first to ask for the facility.
Alwoplast charge $5.00/day on good wharves including water with metered electricity. Hot showers ashore and the considerable resources of Alwoplast and owners Alex and Dagmar
Page 28 Facilities
Fuel (Copec) on a pier at Niebla just inside entrance to river.
Chandler: Fibronavales Libertad 15, Gen Lagos 1049, Tel 218 742.
M&F Naval Service (Casilla 1422, Tel/Fax 228 699, English spoken) can cope with stainless steel, aluminium, fibreglass, refrigeration, electrical work, paint work and interior work.
Wood & Metalwork: Walper & Rodas Gen Lagos 1356, Tel 212 189
Mecanica Valdivia (alongside Walper & Rodas)
Electronics: Juan Manuel Fabres Av. Pedro Aguirre Cerda 1330, Tel 218 189 (authorised Furono technician). STEP, di Valentín Lopez, Ismael Valdés 236 Tel 218 674 (shop).
Section 2 Seno Reloncaví, Golfo de Ancud and Golfo Corcovado
Page 31 Climate
Rachas can be a problem in mountainous areas but are uncommon in lower lying islands.
In general fuel is available in cans at the gasolineras of the larger villages in the area. Occasionally, e.g. at the wharf of Oxxean, Puerto Montt, it is available alongside.
These are generally lit by a flashing yellow light. Mussel farms are also common and are often found inside the Salmoneras. They are generally not lit and do not show up so well on radar. See warning Page 6
Page 33 2.1 Puerto Inglés, plan title
For Ingles read Inglés.
Page 33 2.4 Puerto Abtao, plan
The charted position should read 73°22'W, not 73°32'W.
Page 34 2·6 Calbuco, Anchorages
For Caicaen read Caicaén.
Page 34 2·7 Estero Huito
A cable crosses the estero with 17m clearance at HW (greater clearance on south side of channel). A good alternative anchorage is in the bay on the north side of the entrance.
Page 36 2·9 Puerto Montt
For Reloncavi read Reloncaví.
There is now a third Marina, Oxxean, cheaper than Marina del Sur and exceptionally helpful and friendly. On the sketch map on page 35 it is due west of the headland on Isla Tenglo, immediately to the right of the 'I' in Isla. Vessels may dry out here against a concrete wall on firm sand. A pressure hose is available for cleaning.
There is a plethora of excellent supermarkets in the town.
Alternative energy specialists (batteries, solar and wind power): Wireless Energy Chile, Tel 292100 or 292101 or e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org. They are very helpful and knowledgeable.
Page 36 2·10 Isla Manzano Caleta Martín
Change title to 'Caleta Martin'. Caleta Martin is on the west side of Punta Chaparano. The fish cages are no longer there but the car ferry sometimes moors in the caleta and occupies almost all the space.
Page 36 2·11 Isla Marimeli
Rocks obstruct the N entrance shown in the chart, enter from E.
Page 36 2·12 Bahía Sotomo
The springs are on the beach at the head of a small indentation (that appears as an island on the chart) about 300 metres to the east of the anchorage. They are exposed below half tide.
Page 37 2·13 Bahía Ralún
The anchorage is deep (25m) and exposed to N. There is no mooring buoy now (2000).
Page 37 2·16 Bahía Linao
The anchorages are at 41°57'S 73°33'·8W and 41°58'S 73°32'W (GPS). The depths of the basin in metres are 3·6m and 1·82·7m.
Page 37 2·17 Isla Manzano Caleta Manzano
For Pichicolou read Pichicolú. This anchorage is very deep and has not been found suitable.
Page 38 2·20 Rada Potreros de Cholgo
Local advice is to anchor to N of the unnamed island. Apparently strong winds even from S are almost unknown in that spot. Exceedingly pretty.
Page 38 2·21 Isla Llancahué Estero Bonito
The small bay is now full of fishing installations with intense commercial activity all night long making the only available anchorage open to S, though the fishing vessels are happy for yachts to tie up with them.
Page 38 2·21 Puerto Huite
Not a particularly nice anchorage, Estero Tubildad, 2 miles to the west is far better.
Page 39 2·23 Quemchi
Estero Tubildad is very pleasant and preferable to either Quemchi or Puerto Huite.
Page 39 2·24 Estero Quintupeu
The first anchorage is in the cove on the S shore one mile inside the entrance. There are now several salmoneras here but good anchorage can still be found.
Page 39 2·25 Estero Cahuelmo
The anchorage described is unsafe, anchor behind the rocky projection about half a mile to the west of the spit. This estero has an evil reputation and should be considered a fair weather only anchorage.
Page 40 2.27 Islas Buta Chauques chart
For Chaques read Chauques.
Islas Buta Chauques, Approach
For Boca read Bajo.
Page 40 2.28 Isla Mechuque
The basin to the NE of town is pretty but space is limited and holding suspect. The anchorage shown on the NE side of Isla Añihúe is very pretty and secure.
Map of Mechuque group: for ANIHUE read AÑIHUE.
Page 42 2·30 Castro
For Banco de Gamboa read Banco Rio Gamboa.
Well sheltered from usual passage of fronts N to SW. Holding very good. Balaena over wintered here and consistently experienced better weather than Puerto Montt and Valdivia.
The Feria operates every day but is most popular on Saturday morning. Most banks have ATMs.
Propane: The address is Prof Serrat 789, on the corner with Calle Piloto S. Ulloa.
For ferretaría read ferretería.
Currently 3 e-mail facilities. Best is at 'Años Luz'on Plaza de Armas.
2·31 Caleta Rilan
Very nice spot. There is a prominent ramp on the shore immediately to the north of the anchor shown on the sketch chart.
Page 43 2·33 Caleta Pozo de Chumildén
In section and plan titles, 'Pozo' should read 'Poza'. Reports state that tidal flow is too strong for comfort.
Page 44 2·37 Estero Ichuac
The estero is on the W side of Isla Lemuy.
Page 44 2·39 Isla Apiao Estero Pellú
Estero Pellú is said to be nearer 73°14'W than 73°13'W.
Page 46 2·42 Estero Pailad
A very beautiful spot. Good anchorage can be found further upstream than shown where the inlet forks into two. Further N it becomes very shallow.
Page 47 2·45 Estero Huildad
The recommended anchorage is good but more secure holding, sheltered from N through S to ESE, is to be found immediately S of the salmon farm 5ca due W of the entrance. (Just above the '0 miles' on the scale of the chartlet.)
Page 48 2·46 Quellón
Estero Yaldad: there are several wrecks, covered at HW, off the abandoned sawmill. Anchor N of the sawmill in 15 metres or in the next bay to N.
Page 48 2·47Bahia Huellonquen
Holding is questionable and the steep slope makes anchoring precarious. One boat was nearly lost here in a northerly gale; after dragging loose netting from abandoned salmon pens fouled the propeller and rudder.
Page 49 2·49 Puerto San Pedro
The third anchorage is open to the NW and even a light breeze from that direction appeared to be funnelled into it. Driftwood and wreckage on beach suggest that it often blows in here and fishermen tend to beach their boats. The anchorage is probably dangerous in unsettled weather, the 4th anchorage has been reported to be good.
Page 50 2·50 Bahía Tictoc
In Puerto Juan Yates the westerly anchorage shown is the more sheltered. If a gale is expected pull very close to shore in the western indentation to escape rachas. At Puerto Escondido the guarda parques for Parque Pumalin will almost certainly call you on VHF and invite you to use the heavy mooring off his home just inside the southern entrance point.
Section 3 Melinka to Laguna San Rafael
Column 2, first paragraph, after 'Canal Chacabuco' add: 'If your zarpe permits, it is also possible to reach Canal Pulluche from Estero Elefantes by Canal Tuahuencayec, Estero Barros Arana and thence via Canal Chacabuco or via Canal Carrera del Diablo and Canal Alejandro.'
3·1 Guaitecas Canal Puquitín, General
The corner of Isla Ascension referred to is of course the NW corner, not the NE.
On the plan, Estero Sangra, Islas Cinco Hermanos, The Thermals of Seno Aysén and Caleta Gato have been mis-labelled in the index and in the boxes. The index and the boxes should read as follows: Estero Sangra, 3·34 (not 3·37); Islas Cinco Hermanos, 3·35 (not 3·34); The Thermals of Seno Aysén, 3·36 (not 3·35) and Caleta Gato, 3·37 (not 3·36). 3·46 Estero Ogder is the indentation on the west side of Estero Elefante in line with the arrow shown on the plan.
In preamble: There is exceptionally good cruising and exploration amongst the canals and islands to the W of the main channels mentioned.
Many of the anchorage notes say secure from NW but don't mention SW. It should always be kept in mind that there will be a strong but usually short-lived SW'ly change following the passage of a front. Fronts pass quickly and one may go to sleep with the front approaching and find the SW'ly change occurring at 4–5 in the morning. Therefore a good anchorage is sheltered from N through to SW assuming that the presence of mountains does not alter the wind direction as it can do quite dramatically especially in Seno Aysen and around Isla Magdelena. Significant winds from the E are rare but do occur and can be strong, however they are usually well forecast.
Puerto Melinka plan
For Estero Alerex read Estero Alvarez. The unnamed canal in front of Estero Alvarez is Canal Lagreze.
Page 53 3·3 Rada de Palena
The river Buta-Palena is navigable for about 6 miles. Minimum depth on the bar is 5 metres but local knowledge is essential. The Szydlowski family have a property on the riverbank and will be willing to assist. It is possible to cross the bar in fairly poor weather due to shelter from the land to the N and the sand spit to the W. Anchorage off the Szydlowski property is safe but uncomfortable with a northerly wind against the river current.
Page 55 3·4 Bahía Anihue
Wonderful anchorage. Szydlowski family monitor Channel 22 (US channel) not Ch 16. Yachts are welcome with or without VHF contact but would be missing warm hospitality if they did not call. There are other anchorages for the adventurous further up the inlet opposite the house, navigable near high water. The inner lagoon reached via this inlet is one of the most beautiful anchorages in the area.
Page 55 3·5 Puerto Santo Domingo
Very doubtful anchorage except in fair weather. Balaena experienced hurricane force rafagas in only a moderate NW gale. When a front passes the SW wind is directed by mountains directly into the anchorage with strong rafagas and it is exceedingly dangerous. Balaena almost forced onto the beach in pitch-blackness and rain. Bahía Anihue is so close that there is no reason to stop in this place.
Page 55 3·6 Isla Amita
Excellent and beautiful anchorage. The two islets shown to the E of the entrance are smaller than appear on the chartlet and when approaching can be difficult to distinguish from the rocky shore behind.
3·6A Isla Chaffers, Caleta Totorore (Balaena's name) Pos. 44º10'S 74º03·5'W.
Charts BA 1288 Chile 800, 801
This is a bay on the N side and just inside the entrance to the long inlet running SE into Isla Chaffers from a point opposite Isla Goicolea. It provides a good stopover if going in either direction to the west of Canal Perez Norte.
The entrance from Canal Alanta is straightforward through a narrow but deep cut in the rocks, but stick to the N side as it shoals where it opens into the bay. Turn in to the bay but beware the covering rock between the entrance and the S tip of the island that is shown on Chilean chart 801.
A long island splits the arm in two; anchor either side. The holding on the W side is good but the E anchorage would probably be preferable in a strong southerly.
This anchorage was suggested to us by Gerry Clark (Totorore) shortly before he disappeared in the Southern Ocean.
Page 56 3·8 Punta Porvenir
This will be removed from future editions of the guide, it is subject to severe rachas and open to the southwesterly that follows a front. A pretty place for a short stop in settled weather, spend the night elsewhere.
Page 57 3·12 & 3·13 Puerto Puyuguapi
The hotel maintains that Dorita is correct though Dorada has been in common use. Equally, there is division between Puyuguapi and Puyuhuapi; either may be found.
Page 57 3·14 Isla Manuel
A safe anchorage but subject to severe rachas, moor well and consider pulling in close to one of the small inlets on the E side or swinging. It is probably unwise to tie up as shown.
Pages 5859 Photos
Quellón not Quellon; Bahía Tic Toc not Bahéa Tic Toc, Ensenada Baja not Ensenada Bahía, Seno Aysén not Seno Aysen.
Page 59 3·17 Isla Filomena
Anchorage 3 has been reported as very good, 3 boats have used it at one time. GPS position of entrance is 44°28'·1S 73°38'·4W. Anchorage has also been found inside the small islet shown on the NE corner of I. Filomena.
Page 60 3·18 Isla Magdelena Caleta Calquemán
The floating hulk – pontoon – is reported to have gone (2001).
Page 60 3·19 Isla Benjamin Estero Arboles Espectrales
The position given in the title should read 73°52'W not 73°56'W. The figures on the chart are correct.
3·21 Caleta Ricardo, General
Best described as 3M E of Punta Nicolas on Isla Benjamin.
Page 62 3·24 Isla Galvarino
For Galverino read Galvarino.
3·25 Caleta Equinoccio, General
Add: Also known as Caleta Whim and Loca Piel.
Page 63 3·29 Isla Larenas Punta Rouse
Bad rachas, probably not suitable, nearby Caleta Olea (3·28) is far better.
Page 63 3·30 Puerto Aguirre
Caleta Poza very nice, buoys marked were no longer there.
Petty vandalism experienced here.
The good fruit shop is still there. Several yachts reported fuel here to be of poor quality.
Page 64 3·31 Isla Melchior
This unnamed estero is called Estero Atracadero by the owner of the surrounding land.
3·33 Caleta Sepulcro
For Laguna read Lagunas.
Page 65 3·34 Estero Sangra, plan
(3·37 on chart on page 52)
Lovely spot. Beware of rocks just off the shore in the NE corner here.
A boom defence in the form of a rope barrier now blocks off the bay shown in the detail. Alternatives are in the two bays at the entrance of the estero on the NE shore.
Page 66 3·35 (3·34 on page 52) Grupo (Islas) Cinco Hermanos
Very nice spot.
3·36 Thermals of Seno Aysén
a) Thermal E of Puerto Perez: a salmonera is now moored in the best position but there are several thermal spots in the immediate vicinity that are worth a visit.
b) Punta Tortuga: a fabulous spot. Yachts may be invited to tie up to a moored salmon pen. Anchoring is otherwise poor.
3·37 (3·36 on page 52) Caleta Gato
Very good anchorage with good holding found close in. Bad rachas but good holding have been experienced.
Page 67 et seq.
Coihaique may be spelt Coyhaique.
3·38 Punta Camello
Caleta Dagny: the safe position is on a private buoy belonging to Admiral (ret) Jorge Sepulveda whose permission should be sought on Ch 16.
Possible to anchor in Caleta Dagny inshore of the mooring buoy.
3·39 Puerto Chacabuco
Ensenada Baja is secure but windy and has very good holding indeed (tested by many different yachts in all conditions). The boat can be left here for a trip via Coihaique to Chile Chico and thence to Los Antiguos in Argentina (to renew visas). The inland country is beautiful and an incredible contrast to the coast. In 2001 several crews had problems with the international police at the border crossings of Balmaceda and Coihaique Alto. The police wished to impose a minimum time outside the country before re-entry and seemed to regard frequent border crossing with suspicion. No similar difficulties have been reported to the editor at any other location in Chile.
Anchorages: Following the printed directions at half tide there was a minimum clearance of 3 metres from sea surface. HW 2hrs. 44mins on Bahía Orange.
Pesca Chile was able to sell excellent frozen salmon filets.
Internet facilities and ATM at the Plaza de Armas in Aysen.
Page 69 3·40 Caleta Christian
For Christiane read Christian.
3.42 Caleta Lynch
Last sentence: SW corner should read NW corner as shown on the plan.
For heading Diversion read Eastern Diversion. Before the heading Continuation insert the following new entry:
There are two new anchorages in the canals to the W of Estero Elefantes, which make a very attractive alternative route to Laguna San Rafael:
3·45A Estuario Barros Arana Caleta San Patricio
45º55·2'S 73º58·5'W (position on chart 815)
Charts BA 1288 Chile 800, 815
On the southern tip of Isla Fitzroy, it is the first bay as you round the S tip from Estuario Barros Arana. There is room to swing safely behind the island or to take a line ashore. A very narrow channel with 2·5 metres at HWS leads to a landlocked inner bay where a hole may be found in which to anchor. This is an exceptionally beautiful and secure anchorage.
This anchorage was found using notes prepared by US S/V Elixir (Bob Ely and Carol Noel).
3·45B Estuario Barros Arana Un-named inlet
46º08·5'S 73º59·8'W (position on chart 812
Charts BA 1288 Chile 800, 812
On Península Taitao opposite Isla San José, a beautiful inlet providing very good shelter from NE through W to SE. Anchor in river mouth, 810m, excellent holding. Other spots available but deeper.
3·46 Estero Odger
This is not shown correctly on map on page 52. The arrow should extend about 1cm further to cove on W side of Estuario Elefantes (spelt incorrectly on map).
Very good spot, Balaena weathered a strong front in perfect tranquillity.
Page 71 3·48 Caleta Primera
The label on map on page 52 is incorrect. It should not point to head of inlet but to the cove shown on the S side at the entrance.
Page 71 3·49 Paso Quesahuén
HW is +45mins on Bahía Orange.
Page 71 3·50 Bahía Quesahuén
Known also as Bahía Sisquelan.
3·50 Bahía Quesahuen (Sisquelan). (Quesahuen, without an accent, is the name given by the armada to the adjacent passage.)
Good shelter from passing front in N anchorage shown. Mud banks extend seawards from either side of stream shown on sketch chart inshore of anchor. Good holding but not a particularly attractive spot.
Pages 72 & 73 3·53 Rio Témpanos and Rio de los Patos
Río de los Patos, not Rio de Patos; Leopardo, not Leopardos.
Rio de los Patos: the entrance is not easy to see from either direction. GPS co-ordinates for entry were 46º33·62'S 73º56·18'W. The pool is some distance upstream past moored tour barges. Good anchorage though a few bits of ice drift in on the tide. The bottom is foul with sunken tree trunks, though only one boat has reported problems, it would be wise to buoy the anchor here.
Page 74 Canal Darwin versus Canals Chacabuco and Pulluche
Estero Gori should read Estero Goñi.
Page 176 The Zarpe
Recently some yachts have had difficulty obtaining a zarpe if they are
unable to show that they posses insurance cover for the possible cost of a
search and rescue operation. This appears to be a rule that is applied at
the discretion of the Port Captain. It is worth noting that such
restrictions appear to more likely to be applied when a visiting yachtsman
has caused trouble for the authorities. A case has also been reported
where a random check of safety equipment was made and a zarpe refused
because flares were out of date.
Page 76 Caleta Galvarino plan
Plan title should read Caleta Galvarino, not Caleta Galverino.
Page 76 4·4 Puerto Yates
Good holding also reported in bay on Isla Garrido to NW of anchor symbol on chartlet.
Page 77 4·7 Estero Balladares
The flower is the pink Coicopihue (Philesia magellanica) and not the red national flower of Chile, Copihue (Lapageria rosea) although the Coicopihue is also called Copihue chilote and Copihue de cordillera because of its close resemblance to the Copihue. The latter is found between Valparaíso and Osorno and was named after Josephine Tascher de la Pagérie, wife of Napoleon Bonaparte, an enthusiastic patron of gardening.
Several vessels have reported that this is a windy and uncomfortable anchorage; the nearby bay on the S coast of Isla Prieta (GPS 45°48'S, 73°23'·4W) provides much better shelter in all conditions with room to swing or tie up as desired.
Page 79 & 80 Isla Larga sketch chart and 4·11B Caleta Cañaveral
Canaveral should read Cañaveral. Position should read 74°50'W.
Page 80 4·11B Caleta Cañaveral
Three reports received stating that this anchorage is unsafe, one vessel had serious trouble in strong NW'ly.
Page 80 4·12 Península Skyring
Local fishermen call this unnamed caleta Pico Paico.
Page 81 4.13A Caleta Cliff
GPS: (entrance) 46°25'·4S 75°20'·6W
Charts UK 12187, 1288 Chile 815
Several vessels have reported this to be a secure anchorage. Plenty of space and good shelter at head.
Page 81 4·14 and 4·14A Bahía San Andres Area
For Monono read Monona.
Reports recieved that the rachas in Caleta Monona are dangerous, it is best avoided.
Page 83 4·15 Puerto Barroso
Several reports confirm that this is a good spot. However, if entering the inner bay, the rock shown in the channel NW of the small island, is in mid channel and should be passed by staying very close to the N side of the channel.
4·16 Puerto Slight Much kelp reported off the pier, exposed to N and holding possible but not good.
4·17 Caleta Buena Buena, not Bueno.
4·19 Bahia San Quintín
Caleta Quintín Quintín, not Quentin.
Puerto Angamos is not a small vessel anchorage.
Page 84 4·19A Puerto San Salvador
(Chart) 47°12'·5S 74°17'·5W (large variation between chart and GPS)
This inlet lies near the S end of Canal Cheap and is just within the SW entrance point of Seno Jesuitas. It is a valuable stopping point for boats coasting around the Golfo de Penas.
Three good anchorages have been reported:
1 Caleta Brage (GPS) 47°12'·7S 74°14'·9W. Tucked in behind projecting headland and islets on SW shore.
2 Caleta Sondre (GPS) 47°12'·3S 74°13'·5W. At the head of a horseshoe bay, not shown on charts, on N shore approximately 1/4 mile W of NE corner of the main bay.
3 Pozo Squeeze (GPS) 47°12'·0S 74°14'·2W. This is a circular pool with total protection and room for 2 boats to swing in 4 metres. The entrance is very tight and should be taken by staying close to the N side and watching for the rocks from the bow. (Two 12-metre vessels with 2 metre draught have entered at low water). (See sketch plan)
Page 84 Gulf of Penas
General: Schröder, not Schroder.
Page 85 Reporting
In addition, there are reporting posts at Puerto Navarino (on Isla Navarino, Ushuaia), Puerto Toro (on the east side of Isla Navarino), Caleta Lennox (Isla Lennox), Carlos (Isla Nueva), Wollaston Radio (on the north of Isla Wollaston).
Page 87 Fuel
Empresa Comercial y Agricola is now Empresa Abastecimiento Zonas Aisladas, EMAZA.
Page 89 5·4 Puerto Francisco
Title: the position should read 74°36'W.
Page 90 5·7 Puerto Merino Jarpa
Merino Jarpa, not Marina Jarpa.
Pages 90 to 91 Photos
Edén, not Eden. Puerto Angosto, not Caleta Angosto. Medio Día, not Media Dia. Ventisquero, not Ventiquero.
Page 91 5·8 Caleta Tortel
Los Vagabundos, not La Vagabundos. Diesel is available through Empresa Abastecimiento Zonas Aisladas, EMAZA.
Page 92 5·13 Caleta Ardevora
There is also an anchorage in 5m in the indentation between the two narrows on the N side of the entrance channel.
Page 93 5·18 Caleta Connor
In first line, delete 'the canal on'.
Page 94 Map of Caleta Connor
The river mouth in the NE corner is silting and the shallows now incorporate the soundings 9,4 and 4.
Page 94 5·19 White Kelp Bay
To distinguish it from Caleta White Kelp, the Ardrizzis suggest that this is renamed Caleta Lenga, after the cat aboard Morgane whose owners (not the cat) first reported on the anchorage.
Leon should read Lión.
5·20 Caleta Ivonne
Punta Morro Estación is properly Punta Estación.
5·21 Seno Iceberg
Add Chilean chart 9431.
In 1868 the Italian corvette Magenta sailed these waters and the zone north of Angostura is full of names of interest in the context of Italian toponymy: Bahía Libertá, Isla Vittorio, Isla Lamarmora, Isla Cavour, Bahía Magenta, Bahía Solferino.
5·22 Caleta Vittoria, General
Para 2: Isla Vittorio not Isla Victoria.
5·23 Bahía Libertá
Libertá, not Liberta.
Page 98 5·26 Caleta Lucas
Position 74°25'·5W, as on chart, not 74°27'W.
Page 99 6·1 Puerto Eden
Map and text: Caleta Malacca is now closed by an overhead cable crossing the entrance.
Page 101 6·1 Puerto Edén, Facilities
Diesel is available through EMAZA, Empresa Abastecimiento Zonas Aisladas. It is in barrels and may need filtering.
There is an official post office at which stamps may be bought but despatch and delivery of mail through this office is unreliable.
6·3 Caleta Maris Stella
Paso del Indio, not Paso Indio.
Paso del Abismo, not Paso Abismo.
Page 102 6·5 Seno Eyre - Bahia Elizabeth
The western anchorage is not shown correctly. Bahia Elizabeth, which is a good anchorage, is the larger bay shown 1/2 mile further N. This is clear on Chilean chart 9510.
Page 103 6·9 Isla Wellington – Caleta Refugio
There is a good walk from the stream at the N end to Estero Gage.
Page 104 6·11 Puerto Alert
The entrance is at 49°52'S 75°14'W; the head of the inlet is 49°48'S, 75°17'W.
Page 105 Alternatives
Seno San Andres is properly named Seno Andres. For Estrecho Peel read Estero Peel. Add: See Charts BA 1282, 1286 and Chilean 10370.
Page 106 6·14 Puerto Molyneux
Delete 'It is half-way along Isla San Miguel under' and substitute 'It is in the bay immediately N of . .'.
Page 107 6·18 Isla Chatham – Steamer Duck Lagoon
One boat rode out a severe northerly in Otter Pool but advised that shelter was best when pulled closer to the N shore than shown on skecth.
Page 108 6·19 Isla Chatham – Estero Plainsong
When entering between I. Chatham and the unnamed island there is an underwater rock immediately to the E of the kelp patch shown.
There is an alternative approach from the S between the unnamed island and the islets to its W.
Page 109 Angostura Guía, Formalities
For Guia read Guía.
Page 110 6·22A Península Wilcock - Caleta Villarrica
Fourth sentence: the rocks and shingle run from the western (not eastern) entrance point, as shown on chartlet. The narrow entrance is subject to rachas but it is quiet within.
Page 116 7·5 Caleta Columbine
In heading, Columbine, not Colombine.
Page 116 7·6 Isla Hunter – Caleta Victoria
This bay is much used by fishing boats which congregate mainly near the shore immediately W of the anchor symbol. The bay is subject to very strong NW winds, though is safe. The most important mooring line is one taken to the NW corner of the bay.
Page 117 Diversion, General
The Ardrizzis report that there are some good anchorages along the route.
Charts Chile chart 10600 shows the route overall.
Paso Morla Vicuña (Unnamed caleta on north shore). This is in GPS position 52º06'S 73º12'W, behind a promontory giving shelter from W. Fishermen have left lines in the trees marking the spot. Anchor in 10m with lines ashore.
Caleta Chandler, Canal White. Strong gusts blow SW up Caleta Chandler therefore it is important to pull well into the small indentation. Once in it is a very good anchorage and the walking is excellent with close-up sightings of condors.
Page 117 Diversion, Estero Las Montañas (See sketches Montañas)
Charts Chile 10600, BA 630
This estero is about 30 miles long and takes the traveller into the heart of the Andes with spectacular mountain scenery in Chile. Many glaciers fall from the Cordillera Sarmiento, several reaching the sea and easily accesible by dinghy. The charts provide little detail but anchorages are plentiful. The anchorages described were all visited by Balaena or Flanneur. Many other posibilities were observed especialy on the western shore behind small promontories. The estero has a reputation for fierce rachas in northerly winds. Despite this there is a substantial amount of well-developed vegetation especially on the western shore which would suggest that good shelter can be found close to shore when the wind is fierce in open water. Also, because it is in the rain shadow, the weather here tends to be better than to the west of Cordillera Sarmiento, especialy at the N end. This area is so spectacular that it is well worth waiting for an opportunity to visit. The anchorages at Paso Morla Vicuña or Isla Jamie are both suitable places to sit out a strong north wind.
All the anchorages are believed, from observation and other reports, to be secure in strong winds. The editor would appreciate more information and reports on conditions experienced. Names given to the anchorages are those of vessels cruising in Patagonia in 2001, as local names are not known.
7.A Bahia Balaena
This is a large shallow bay at the very head of the estero. It is well sheltered from S but could be uncomfortable in a strong northerly, in which case moving to Puerto Pelagic (7.B) would be the best option. Anchor where shown in 10m, sand and mud, steeply shoaling.
From the NE corner of the bay it is possible to climb the mountainside heading N. There are wonderful views of a hidden valley, lakes, rivers and mountains. If the walk is continued above the level of vegetation to the head of the valley there is a magnificent view of the most southerly glacier of the Campo de Hielo Sur calving into a lake.
7.B Puerto Pelagic
51º 39.3S 73º 22.8W
This is believed to be the most secure spot in the estero in northerly winds. It is obviously well used by fishermen and the presence of large trees indicates good shelter. The bottom shelves rapidly from 40m to the shore, the gradient is greatest off the fishing camp at the W end of the beach. Anchor in 15m with lines pulled well in to the shore.
7.C Caleta Mist
Large trees and a fishing camp suggest that this caleta is well sheltered from the north. A projection about 1/2 mile to S may provide a degree of protection from this direction. Anchor in 15m in sand and pull close to the beach with lines. From here it is a short row to the entrance of the 1-mile long estero leading to a glacier. This estero is particularly spectacular because the sides rise almost vertically to several thousand feet and there are two glaciers that calve over the mountainside with impressive avalanches of ice. There is also a large colony of cormorants.
7.D Estuario Kuven
51º52'·4S 73º17'·4W (Entrance)
This is a large estuary with depths and holding in mud and sand and several good positions. It is thought that the best spot in strong northerlies could be the innermost anchorage with a line to the N shore.
7.E Islas and Bahia Enez
Two anchorages have been used, a tour of the inner bay showed that there are other possibilities at the N and S ends.
7.E(a) Caleta Flanneur
There are two large fish camps here with good holding in 5m. In strong winds better shelter will be found by pulling close to shore.
7.E(b) Caleta Stokes
The entrance is a little tricky between two sandbanks. However the water is clear and there is a little kelp to mark the banks. There is 5m in the entrance that deepens within and provides good access to the inner bay.
Holding here is superb in 4m in thick mud. Vegetation is sparse so it may be windy but as there is no high ground in the immediate vicinity winds may be steady.
Page 118 7·8 a Isla Jamie
Charts BA 630 Chile 1101, 10650
The bay on the SE side of Isla Jamie offers excellent protection from all directions except E. Holding off the beach is good in sand and this spot was almost calm in a 35kt northwesterly. Better shelter may be found where the fishermen have permanent lines on the S side of the cove. See sketch chart.
Page 119 Canal Kirke plan
Poca Esperanza, not Poco Esperanza.
7·12 Bahía Easter
Add: 'Favour the W shore on entering.'
Page 121 Puerto Cóndor plan
Title should read Cóndor, not Condor.
Page 121 7.16 Estero Ultima Esperanza – Puerto Cóndor
The anchorage shown in the chartlet is poor and the hotel is closed. Very secure anchorage can be found further up Seno Eberhardt in the narrows at Punta Cajon (anchor symbol on Chile 1103) near the Eberhardt homestead. In 2001 it was possible to get a lift to town and an inexpensive taxi back. This is a good spot from which to visit Puerto Natales.
Page 122 Seno Ultima Esperanza
In 2001 the tourist pier was in poor condition and this was not an option.
Page 122 7·17 Puerto Mardon
Add: The small caleta on the N side of the entrance is recommended. The western arm has rocks obstructing the channel but with a careful lookout a safe entrance can be made with 4m at low water.
Directions Pass about 50m S of the exposed rock in the entrance and then steer close to S shore. The dangers are clearly marked by thick kelp. See sketch detail.
Page 123 Península Zach – Bahias Isthmus and Mallet
The alternative anchorage near the entrance has poor holding in kelp and rock.
Page 124 7·20 Islas Otter
Add: It is also possible to anchor on the E side of the Península on the E side of Caleta Otter. This Península converts into an island at high tide.
Chartlet of Islas Otter
The isthmus linking Isla Campbell with the islet immediately to its south is generally underwater and not visible. It should be shown as shallows.
Page 124 7·21 Isla Hose – Caleta Dardé
Depths in the caleta are suitable for anchoring in the NW corner. See sketch chart
Page 124 7·23 Isla Manuel Rodriguez – Puerto Profundo
In heading: Rodriguez, not Rodrigues.
Add: There is also an anchorage between Isla Carreta and the long, thin island to its NW. Enter from the NE. Good walking on Isla Carreta. Two bays with good shelter have been reported opposite and NW of Isla Carreta.
Page 127 8·1 Isla Tamar – Caleta Rachas
Delete Chile chart 1114.
Subject to severe rachas should only be used in settled weather or as last resort in bad weather.
Rocas Izquierda, not Rochas Izquierdas.
Page 127 8·1 Chartlet of Paso Roda, Caleta Rachas and Puerto Tamar
The northern entrance channel is much narrower than has been shown.
Sargazos, not Sargazo.
Page 128 Caleta Cascada, 8·21, has been mis-positioned and is actually below the 'e' of (the eastern) 'Magallanes'.
Page 129 8·2 Puerto Tamar
Delete Chile chart 1114.
Page 129 8·3 Isla Providencia – Caleta Sylvia
One large yacht reported this anchorage to be very good and calm with 40kts NW blowing outside.
Page 130 8·5 Puerto Angosto
The last anchorage, at the head of the bay, is for yachts drawing less than 2m and for fair weather.
Page 131 8·7 Caleta Playa Parda plan
The latitude should read 53°19'S, not 53°15'S.
Page 131 8·8 Caleta Notch
The advice to take lines ashore has been unhelpful in some conditions. Rachas in the inner bay tend to blow on shore, as there is no 'notch' to pull into to escape them this means that the anchor has to do all the work and it is more comfortable to swing.
Page 134 Diversion
For Edgworth read Edgeworth.
Paso O'Ryan is called 'La Corriente de San Pedro'.
Page 138 8·18 Península Brunswick – Bahia Woods
Reported to be a bad place in unsettled weather.
Page 138 8·19A Canal Acwalisnan – Caleta Murray
This caleta, near the W entrance of the canal, has been used by several yachts and appears to be secure. It may be subject to funnelling of strong NW winds. About 4 miles S, also on the W side of the canal, between Esna. Wilson and Elsa, is a densely-wooded caleta highly recommended by local fishermen. (The caleta is shown on Chile 11300 but absent from other charts.
Page 138 Seno Pedro and Canal Acwalisnan plan
Seno Dyneley, not Seno Dynelley.
Page 139 8·19 Canal Acwalisnan
Add: Bahia Millicent (9·8A) lies on Isla Clarence opposite to the southern entrance to the canal and provides excellent all round shelter.
Page 142 8·23 Península Brunswick
Position: Around 71°02'W, not 73°02'W.
Page 142 8·24A Península Brunswick – Fort Bulnes
Replace with the following:
Page 142 8·24A Península Brunswick – Bahia San Juan de las Posesion
Charts BA 1281 Chile 11300, 1114, 1121, 1140
Bahia San Juan de las Posesion is a possible day stop for visiting Fuerte Bulnes, a replica of Chile's first settlement on the Strait (1843). Before then sailing vessels knew the bay as Puerto del Hambre or port Famine, a confusion maintained on Chart 1121 and earlier editions of other charts (it is correctly named on Chile 11300 and 1140). The white cross on the chart marks the grave of Pringle Stokes in the 'cemeterio ingles'. Captain Stokes was the first commander of HMS Beagle during the Philip Parker King expedition that charted the Strait and other parts during 1826–1830. Anchor on the NE side of the bay under the fort.
Page 142 8·24B Península Brunswick – Bahia Mansa (Puerto del Hambre) (See sketch)
Charts BA 1281 Chile 11300, 1114, 1122, 1140
Just over 30nM S of Punta Arenas, Bahia Mansa offers much better shelter. There is road and public transport access to the city.
Bahia Mansa is the third and longest of three bays to the N of the Santa Ana Peninsula, between the point where a Chilean flag flies to mark the site of Puerto del Hambre, the ill-fated Spanish settlement of 1583 and Punta Askew to E. The Bahia Carreras chartlet on Chile 1122, showing a shallow bay, is incorrect. There are houses at the head of Bahia Mansa with fishing boats crowding the shore or anchored close in. Anchor in 8–10m and take a line through the kelp to a tree on the W shore. Leave the E side free for fishing boats to come and go. The anchorage is subject to swell. There are rental cabins in the small bay to W. It is possible to hike over to the Santa Ana peninsula and Fuerte Bulnes.
8·25 Punta Arenas
A number of very uncomfortable work-boat moorings, sometimes vacant, have been laid near the pier; consult the harbourmaster. If weather permits, for shopping, a temporary berth might be found alongside a fishing boat at the pier or at the pier itself, near the root.
A supermarket just N of the main pier will deliver to the pier. There is a good fish market in the centre of town.
DAP airlines fly to Puerto Williams every day bar Sunday in summer, and on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays in winter. The service to the Falkland Islands has been withdrawn.
Page 143 Add:
8·28A Bahía Gregorio
Charts BA 554 Chile 1150
The anchorage at Punta Sara in the NW corner of Bahía Gregorio is well sheltered from W but quite shallow.
8·28B Punta Delgada
Charts BA 554 Chile 1160
The anchorage, which is E of Punta Delgada, is well sheltered from the west and has been used by the armada to check incoming yachts.
8·29 Punta Dungeness A Chilean reporting station has been established here.
Page 143 8·27 Surgidero Punta Alfredo
Position: 52°51'·5S, not 51°51'·5S.
Page 145 9·20 Seno Ventisquero has been omitted from the plan. It is the long narrow seno above the 'e' of O'Brien.
Page 146 9·3 Bahía Morris
Position: 70°58'S, not 70°53'S.
Page 147 9·6 Isla King – Puerto King
This should read: 9·6 Tierra del Fuego – Puerto King. The real Isla King lies about 2 miles NW of the bay which is clearly shown on Chile 1201.
Page 147 9·7 Isla Diego Puerto Soffia
There is a large unlit mooring buoy in the middle between the figures '18' and '33' on the chartlet (2000). Subject to severe rachas.
Pages 147 9·8A Isla Clarence – Bahia Millicent (see sketch)
Charts BA 554 Chile 1201
This caleta, regularly used by fishermen, provides excellent all weather shelter in a cove lying in the NW corner of the S bay by pulling close under the large trees. There is a lot of kelp in the anchorage but the bottom appears to be mud alone and provides excellent holding.
Pages 147/8 9·8 Caleta Parmelia & 9·9 Caleta Lois
For Louis read Lois. Lois has been repeatedly reported to be untenable when other anchorages in the vicinity have been found calm. It should be avoided as good alternivives lie close at hand.
Page 148 9·11 Isla Adelaida
Adelaide should read Adelaida.
Page 153 9·19 Isla Londonderry – Puerto Fortuna
Charts Add Chile 1251
There is a better anchorage to the NW on the opposite shore, Caleta Lagunas.
Page 159 10·12 Seno Pia, Anchorage
Ice does enter the anchorage at the S end of the E arm and may jam at the entrance.
Page 161 10·5 Caleta Sonia
Position is 54°58'S not 54°38'S.
Page 162 10·7 Península Dumas
Position is 54°56'S not 56°56'S.
10·8 Puerto Navarino, Approaches
The red and white lattice markers are on the W end of Rocas Centinelas (not the E end of Rochas Centimolas) and are now shown on Chilean chart 1303.
The anchorage in front of the armada building is open to northerlies.
Page 163 10·9 Ushuaia, Warning
The Falkland Islands are still considered to be Argentinean Territory by Argentina though not by Chile. Any passage to or from Argentina or Chile which includes the Falkland Islands should take that into account. For instance, a yacht moving from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires via the Falklands will be deemed not to have left Argentina; this may be relevant to her authority to remain in Argentinean waters. Immigration formalities at Ushuaia are free 09001630 Monday to Friday. Outside those hours charges are heavy.
Page 165 Ushuaia
The Barracuda has been recommissioned and is now absent from this position.
The gas station is run by YPF, not YPV. Cheaper bulk fuel is available by long pipe at the YPF cement pier 'Terminal Orion' after booking by Tel 421 397 or VHF 161·035MHz. Best water is from one of the two yacht clubs. 'Surty Sur' is now 'Suma'. The butcher on Belgrano is pricey; very high quality vacuum-sealed packs are available in the supermarkets.
10·10 Ensenada Villarino
Position is 67°46'W not 67°36'·5W.
Page 166 10·11 Puerto Williams
The Museum is Museo Martín Gusinde. Museo del Fin del Mundo is in Ushuaia.
The paint splashes are now red (2000).
The armada does not supply fuel but may, if asked, allow boats alongside their pier to load fuel in cans from COPEC.
In 'Shopping centre ': delete 'centre'. For Cafetaría read Cafetería.
In summer 1999 a bi-weekly catamaran service operated between Puerto Williams and Ushuaia.
10·12 Bahía Almirante Brown
The narrow canal is Paso Remolcador Guaraní. The Argentine chart number is H477. The holding at the estancia has a lot of kelp and it is necessary to search around for a good spot.
Page 168 10·14 Bahía Buen Suceso
Position is 54°48'S, not 54°46'S.
10·15 Puerto Eugenia
The day marks have changed. Working from W to E, the mark on Isla Barlovento is a cement tower, red/white/red. The white and orange tripod in the bay is now red and white. A white/red/white tripod has been erected on the E side of Punta Eugenia (2000).
10·16 Puerto Toro
Cigarettes, meat, fruit and vegetables can be bartered for centollas (king crabs) and local craftwork.
10·21 Caleta Martial
Position should read 55°49'·3S, 67°17'·7W.
One should ask the armada for permission to move rather than telling them of the move.
10·22 Caleta León
Position should read 55°57'·8S 67°13'·6W.
Caleta León is 0·5M NW of Punta Espolón. The three armada personnel have been replaced by an armada family following a new policy introduced in 1998.
Plan: The armada buoy has gone. The albatross statue is in the position shown on the plan as the new lighthouse.
Page 174 11·2 Islas Juan Fernandez, General
Isla Robinson Crusoe was San Juan Bautista. Mas a Fuera and Mas a Tierra should read Más Afuera and Más a Tierra. The village is Juan Bautista, not Juan Batista.
Page 175 Importing equipment from broad
Duty-free is definitely allowed. However, many people have had trouble. The problem seems to be that the local agents of the courier companies (none of the major ones seem to have an office of their own) appear to add the duty themselves (possibly acting as agents for the customs and collecting a commission) and refuse to release the goods without payment. No particular company appears to be secure in this respect. If possible, contacting the local agent beforehand and ensuring that they will not charge you is a good idea. It is essential that the package is marked Rancho de Nave and it seems to help if it is sent to a well-known marine business such as Alwoplast in Valdivia or Oxxean in Puerto Montt. Very heavy fees are charged by the courier companies, despite this it is not unusual for the delivery to take almost the same time as mail. One boat found that arranging for packages to be repacked and sent by regular postal airmail in a plain wrapper, labelled 'radio spares' or such like, worked better than the courier at a tiny fraction of the cost.
Page 176 The Zarpe
The start of the application should read: 'Mediante la presente, solicito a Vd. la autorización de navegación en aguas interiores para mi yate (name)'. At the end, the motive should read 'Fines Turisticos'.
Reporting your position
The armada seems quite happy if you only have VHF. This means that you only need to report when you are within range of a station, which happens very infrequently. If you have, or admit to having, SSB then twice-daily reporting is likely to prove quite a chore!
Page 180 Anchoring
Many corrections submitted have incorporated comments on the positioning of anchors and lines. Anchoring techniques are as varied as the yachts and crews that practice them. Please regard positions of anchors and shorelines described in this book as a guide only. Everything depends upon the conditions on the day. For this reason 'corrections' have generally not been incorporated except when further experience has indicated a significant safety concern.
Comments about suitability of anchorages need to be taken in the light of other nearby possibilities. If it is known that an alternative was far superior in particular conditions, this is valuable information. If the anchorage was uncomfortable in a storm but there was no reasonable alternative and the vessel was safe then the anchorage can be considered a valuable one. Obviously much depends upon the circumstances of the visit.
Patagonia Paul van Gaalen. El Mercurio (Santiago) 1997. Good photographs, interesting text. ISBN 9567 4020 51.
In Patagonia Bruce Chatwin. Vintage reprint 1998. Classic, idiosyncratic, a good read but not entirely reliable. ISBN 0099 7695 14.
Diccionario de la Toponomia Austral de Chile Carlos Alberto Mantellero Ognio. Published by the Author, Valparaíso. Etymology of names along the Chilean waterways. In easy Spanish, a fascinating companion for a voyage in this region. Two volumes: ISBN 9562 3501 17 (1984), 9562 3501 33 (1991).
Savage Nick Hazlewood. The Life and Times of Jeremy Button. Hodder & Stoughton. ISBN 0340 7391 18.
Page 186 et seq
Weather, add fosca haze.
Lights and Charts
s: segundos (not sugundos) seconds
Silb: silbato or silbido whistle
Ports and Harbours, add: nudo knot
Direction, babor (not barbor) port (left).
Administration: carabineros police, combustible fuel, in the general sense, gasolina or bençina - petrol (UK) gasoline (US), guarda civil not present in Chile, investigaciones CID and international Police, petróleo diesel.
New Chilean chart numbers south of Puerto Montt:
|7000 - 700
||7111 - 701
||7211 - 724
||7212 - 703
||7300 - 704
||7310 - 706/734
|7311 - 705
||7321 - 732
||7330 - 708
||7351 - 722
||7362 - 710
||7371 - 711
|7372 - 712
||7390 - 709
||7392 - 721
||7400 - 716
||7422 - 717
||7431 - 715
|7432 - 714
||8000 - 800
||8112 - 719/814
||8161 - 818
||8200 - 801
||8221 - 7460
|8300 - 718
||8400 - 803
||8412 - 804
||8500 - 802
||8511 - 749
||8600 - 809
|8610 - 8290
||8611 - 827
||8612 - 811
||8620 - 810
||8630 - 842
||8632 - 841
|8640 - 846
||8646 - 808/807
||8660 - 838
||8700 - 840
||8710 - 8430
||8711 - 817
|8800 - 815
||8810 - 9110
||8820 - 816
||8900 - 812
||9000 - 900
||9100 - 919
|9470 - 941/906
||9472 - 908
||9541 - 910
||9900 - 903
||10200 - 904
||10300 - 912
|10330 - 10340
||10570 - 1008
||10600 - 1101
||10610 - 1103/1102
||10620 - 1135
||10651 - 1062
|11110 - 1009
||1112 - 910
||11141 - 1107
||11400 - 1140
||11420 - 1142
||11431 - 1121
|11432 - 1122/1120
||11500 - 1150
||11550 - 1152
||11600 - 1160
||11700 - 1108
||11811 - 1111
|13131 - 1303
||13211 - 1311
||13220 - 1322
||13322 - 1303/1304