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Atlantic Islands
© Anne Hammick 2002
Supplement No. 4 – May 2002
Part 4 – The Cape Verde Islands
Please note that latest updates are highlighted in BLUE text and also marked with an asterisk * for those printing in monochrome.
THE CAPE VERDE ISLANDS
Page 223 The archipelago – add new paragraph three from end:
In December 2000 the security situation was summed up as follows. Reasonably good: Santa Maria (Ilha do Sal), Sal Rei (Boavista), Tarrafal (São Nicolau), Ilha do Maio, Ilha do Fogo, Ilha Brava. Average: Baía da Palmeira (Ilha do Sal). Poor: Mindelo (São Vicente), Praia and Tarrafal (Santiago), the last being described as downright 'spooky'.
Page 226 – Cape Verdean representation abroad – add/amend as necessary:
Washington DC: 3415 Massachusetts Avenue NW, Washington, DC 20007, Tel (1202) 965 6820, Fax (1202) 965 1207
Paris: Rue Jouffroy D'Abbans, 80 75017 Paris, Tel (331) 4212 7354, Fax (331) 4053 0436
Bonn: Fritz-Schaffer-Strasse 5, D–53113, Bonn, Tel (49228) 265002, Fax (49228) 265061
Portugal: Avenida do Restelo, 33 – 1400, Lisbon, Tel (351) 21301 9521, Fax (351) 21301 5308
In western Europe the Cape Verdes also has embassies in The Hague, Brussels, Rome, Luxembourg and Stockholm, and consulates in Madrid and Boston amongst other places.
Page 226 Money – amend/add:
* The official currency is the Cape Verdean escudo (escudo Caboverdianos), divided into 100 centavos and written 000$00 (as used to be the case with the Portuguese escudo). It is pegged to the euro and the US dollar, and has over the last decade been remarkably stable. As of January 2001 it stood at around CV 176$00 to £1,* only changing a single escudo (to CV 177$00 to £1) by May 2002. Other rates were CV 110$00 to €1 and CV 121$00 to US $1. Currency exchange rates can be checked on the internet at www.bcv.cv, choosing the tab marked 'Taxas', followed by that for 'Taxas de Câmbio'.
The first automatic teller machines (ATMs) were installed – in Espargos and Santa Maria (Ilha do Sal), Mindelo (São Vicente) and Praia (Santiago) – in 1998. Credit card charges are normally made in Portuguese escudos.
Page 227 Telephones – add to first and second paragraphs:
CV Telecom is now run by the Portuguese.
(By December 2000 the problem of incompatible 'phone cards appeared to have been resolved).
The US access code for AT&T is 112, but as of January 2001 there was no access code listed for MCI Worldphone. Both can be checked on the internet, at www.att.com and www.worldcom.com/tools-resources/ respectively.
Page 228 Transportation
Flights As of December 2000 TACV accepted credit cards to buy interisland tickets. TAP's attitude was not known.
* Interisland flights – add:
Schedules can be checked online via the company's entry on the main Cabo Verdean website – see Further Information, below.
Taxis and car hire As of December 2000 payment could nearly always be made by credit card.
Page 228 – Add new side-heading after Fax:
E-mail
As of late 1999 cybercafés were reported to be available in many larger towns.
Page 229 Further information – add new paragraphs:
After reading the above comment, the Aisling Irwin e-mailed me: 'For the second edition I have substantially reduced the information for sailors. Now there is an introductory section for people considering stopping in the Cape Verdes. In the individual island chapters I confine myself just to mentioning the good harbours and bays, and the protocol on arrival. Instead I refer people to your excellent book'. * The second edition of Cape Verde Islands (ISBN 1-8416-20386) was published in December 2001 and, like its predecessor, is highly recommended. It is available online via the Cape Verdes' own website (see below), as well as from www.amazon.com or any good bookseller.
As of December 2000 an impressive (and up-to-date) site which appeared to cover just about every aspect of life in the Cabo Verdes was available at www.caboverde.com. The choice of languages included English. * This excellent website was still going strong – with some additional pages – by May 2002. Download the recipes for Cachupa Rica or Canja de Galinha (in English) and get a real foretaste of the islands!
Page 230 Natural history – add new section:
The waters surrounding the Cape Verde islands are particularly rich in cetaceans (whales and dolphins), while several of the islands have bird and plant species found nowhere else in the world.
Amongst the species recorded during a recent cetacean survey in Cape Verdean waters were pilot whales*, bottlenose dolphins*, Atlantic and pan-tropical spotted dolphins*, sei, bryde, sperm*, fin* and humpback whales. (Descriptions of those marked by an asterisk will be found on pages 19–20 of the current edition). Sperm whales, though usually in depths of 500m or more, were found northwest of Ilha do Sal and between Boavista and São Nicolau, as were fin whales (which had not previously been reported in the area). Humpback whales are thought to calve in the lee of Ilha do Sal, Boavista and Ilha do Maio.
Cruisers with a particular interest in birds and plants should refer to the website (www.caboverde.com) mentioned previously. As of January 2001 it contained a section entitled Aves de Cabo Verde detailing 48 local species complete with pictures, while the Planta Endemicas e arvolres indigenas section did the same for some 60 plants. However a dictionary may be necessary, as in both cases the text is in Portuguese only.
Page 231 Entry and regulations – add new paragraphs:
Routine check-in procedures appear to have been (slightly) streamlined, with immigration procedures only required on first arriving in the islands and most harbour authorities – be they capitão do porto, policia maritima or delegacia maritima – allowing yachts to check in and out at the same time provided they can cite their next destination. In December 2000 the only exception to this appeared to be Mindelo (São Vicente), where a second visit was expected. A standard fee of CV 465$00 (less than £3) is charged for outward clearance. Throughout the Cape Verdes islands, the best time to catch the necessary officials in their offices appears to be at around 1000 on a weekday morning.
* IMPORTANT: In July 1999 the entry regulations for yachts arriving in the Cape Verde islands were changed, making it an offence to make landfall anywhere other than at Palmeira on Ilha do Sal, Mindelo on São Vicente or Porto da Praia on Santiago, which were designated 'Official Sea Border Posts'. (The republic's three largest airports, which happen to be on the same three islands, were designated 'Air Border Posts'). Apparently, clearance out of the islands must also be made via one of the three Sea Border Posts listed above, effectively preventing yachts legally visiting Fogo or Brava before continuing westward.
As these changes received no publicity whatsoever (it took nearly three months' of persistent effort to get a copy of the new ruling, which then had to be translated) several yachtsmen found themselves in trouble late in 2000 for supposed 'violations'. It also appears that not all the ex-immigration officials were aware of their loss of status. One British yacht cleared in at Boavista, where a 'charming official' assured them that initial clearance at his island was perfectly in order and that he would send the information on, and it was not until they reached Praia, Santiago that they were told this was not acceptable. A fine of around £600 was threatened, though this was subsequently lifted.
In the relevant Portuguese legal document (translation appended at the end of this supplement), the fine for failure to comply with the new law is stated as 'no less than 20,000$ and no more than 5,000,000$' (approximately £113 and £28,250) for each person. It also states that 'Any individual entering or leaving the country through an Official Border Post will have to present themselves and pay the sum between 10,000$ and 100,000$' (£56 and £565). However, while keeping track of people entering and leaving is entirely reasonable, this latter 'head tax' seems inexplicable in a country which is actively trying to promote tourism, by aeroplane if not by yacht.
Once again, feedback on any of the above points would be very much appreciated.
Page 231 Winds – add new paragraph:
It has been suggested that the best time to cruise the Cape Verde islands is in late September or early October, when there is likely to be less wind and swell than a month or so later, so making some of the smaller anchorages much more inviting. While this may well be true, it would still be unwise to approach the Caribbean before the end of the hurricane season, which can extend into December.
* Page 232 Buoys and lights – add:
Early in 2002 numerous new lights were reported, almost doubling the total number. Feedback on whether or not these appear to be functioning as advertised would be particularly appreciated.
Page 233 Charts – add at beginning and to second paragraph:
The first locally surveyed and printed Cape Verde charts became available early in 2001, an initiative of the Director General of Marine and Ports. The first three covered the islands' major harbours:
No. 21 – Baía da Palmeira, Ilha do Sal
No. 41 – Porto Grande (Mindelo), São Vicente
No. 71 – Porto da Praia, Santiago
with more to follow. They retailed at around CV 3000$00 (about £17) each, and could in theory be ordered from the Casa das Bandiras, Tel 238 321391, Fax 238 321559, at R Governador Calheiros 14, Caixa Postal 16, São Vicente – though it has to be said that all attempts to contact this company from the UK have so far been unsuccessful. As of May 2002 there was no distributor outside the islands themselves.
A new edition of Admiralty 367 was published in May 2002, incorporating much new information from the new Cape Verde charts.
As of mid 2000, coverage of the Cape Verde islands in the ARCS Navigator series of digital charts was reported to be poor, with little detail available.
ILHA DO SAL
Page 235 – Lights – add/amend:
* 2919·75 Ponta Norte 16°15'·1N 22°54'·9W Fl(3)12s15m8M Metal tower 5m
2923·5 Pedra de Lume 16°45'·2N 22°53'·4W Fl(5)20s27m8M Metal tower 5m
2919·9 Rabo Junco 16°41'·8N 22°59'·2W Fl.4s14m8M Metal tower 5m
2922 Ponta do Sinó 16°35'·3N 22°55'·3W * Fl(2+1)15s10m8M 300°-vis-142° Square grey tower 9m
Page 236 Baía de Palmeira
* Plans – add:
Cabo Verdean 21
General – add final sentence:
(Though see note to page 223).
Approach – add/amend:
... only two of which are lit, both Iso.R (and one of which was awash in 1997), plus various smaller mooring buoys. None of the steel mooring buoys were lit in late 1999.
A 4·1m sounding has been reported in position 16°45'N 22°59'·2W, well outside the 10m contour. It lies at the end of a shoal extending from rocks some 1·3M to the northwest.
Anchorage – add second paragraph:
In November 2000 the tumbledown pier was still recommended as the best option for dinghy landing. However both consideration and a long painter should be employed as local people land (and sometimes haul their dinghies out) at the pier and, reasonably enough, may get angry when impeded by flocks of inflatables on short painters.
Formalities – amend second paragraph:
The delegacia maritima (harbour office) is now situated on the outskirts of Palmeira, in a blue house on the left side of the road to Vila de Espargos. Open mornings only. In January 2001 formalities were said to present no problems, with the entire process (checking in and out in one visit) taking less than an hour.
Facilities – add/amend:
Water Alternatively from a tap in the village used by local people, for which a small charge may be made. Water quality in late 1999 was reported to be good. In November 2000 cans could be filled from the fontana – a blue concrete box north of the main street.
Bottled gas Camping Gaz refills at the filling station or from an agent in the village. Other bottles can be refilled at the Shell plant overlooking the harbour.
Bank (Now has a cash machine or ATM).
Shops/provisioning (still the case in November 2000, except that the vendor had moved her patch to the pavement outside).
Produce market Small produce market in Palmeira, with a larger one in Espargos.
Communications – add:
E-mail At the sports club in Espargos (opposite the filling station near the junction with the road to the airport and Santa Maria).
* Page 237 Baía de Mordeira – Lights
2919·9 Rabo Junco 16°41'·8N 22°59'·2W Fl.4s14m8M Metal tower 5m
Page 237 Baía de Santa Maria – * Lights
2922 Ponta do Sinó 16°35'·3N 22°55'·3W Fl(2+1)15s10m8M 300°-vis-142° Square grey tower 9m
General – add new final sentence:
Hotel and other tourist developments have continued apace, and if conditions permit the yacht to be left unattended Santa Maria offers perhaps the broadest range of nightlife options in the archipelago.
Anchorage – add:
Santa Maria is a good choice in swells from the north-northwest, which may make both Palmeira and Mordeira – not to mention Sal Rei on Ilha da Boavista – quite untenable.
In November 2000 the pier was reported still to be in need of work. However dinghies on long painters could be left off the lee side, inshore of and hence away from ladder which is in constant use by local, tourist and yacht traffic all day and much of the night. There was no apparent need for, nor offers of, a minder.
Facilities – add/amend:
Bank ... with cash machine (ATM).
Cafés/restaurants In November 2000 the Restaurant Vulcão de Fogo was recommended for good food and live guitar music.
Communications – add/amend:
Telephone & fax At the hotels (staff at the Hotel Criolou are reported to be particularly helpful in this respect). There is also a dedicated CV Telecom office.
E-mail At the Wind Pub Internet Grill, two streets back from the waterfront about 200m east of the pier.
Car hire Hertz, Avis and other companies hire out both standard and four wheel drive vehicles.
* Page 238 Porto de Pedra de Lume – Lights
2923·5 Pedra de Lume 16°45'·2N 22°53'·4W Fl(5)20s27m8M Metal tower 5m
BOAVISTA
Page 239 Lights
2914 Morro Negro (Ponta Ferreira) 16°06'·3N 22°40'·6W Fl.20s163m31M 163°-vis-035° Square white turret on building 12m
Approach – add:
As of November 2000 an unlit, red pillar buoy was encountered at 16°13'·7N 22°57'·7W (some 2M west-southwest of Ponta do Sol). At around 1·2m in diameter and 2·5m tall it presented an obvious collision risk if approaching Porto de Sal Rei from Ilha do Sal. It was reported to have an open triangular topmark and the number 7 painted in white on one side.
Page 239 Porto de Sal Rei
Plans – add:
Note It is reported that, as of mid 2000, the ARCS digital chart of the same number suffers from the same failings – not least in placing the harbour 2M too far west. In addition, the inset plan for Porto de Sal Rei on Imray-Iolaire chart E4 does not appear to be based on WGS84).
Lights – add/amend:
* 2919·6 Cais de Boa Vista 16°13'·7N 22°55'·1W Iso.R.4s6m5M
2918 Calheta do Velho (Ilhéu de Sal Rei) 16°10'·4N 22°56'W Fl(5)WR.20s28m7M
Delete Note regarding light 2919
General – add/amend:
... northern approach (see plan), with completion confirmed in November 2000. * Light characteristics were notified in April 2002.
Anchorage – add sentence to second paragraph, and new final paragraph:
In November 2000 the best 'leading light' from the anchorage to the dinghy beach was the yellow light at the Shell filling station (the only yellow one on the waterfront). An anchor light was recommended for the return trip...
It seems that hurried departures are not confined to summer or autumn. A yachtsman visiting in early December 2000 reports: 'Our second visit to Sal Rei was interesting. The trades were blowing out of the northeast at about 20 knots, but a series of gales up north set up a north-northwesterly swell which gradually worked more and more around Ilhéu de Sal Rei. Baixo Inglez became a cauldron, the dinghy passage between Ilhéu de Sal Rei and the town dock broke all the way across, and the 3·7m patch south of the anchorage also broke. The swells in the anchorage were cresting and getting closer to breaking as the tide fell. All the yachts left at that point – easy enough in those conditions. Suffice it to say that even with a northeaster, if the swells are big enough with some west in them it can become untenable.'
Formalities – add:
... on the Customs Pier (most frequently at around 1000), or failing that ... etc.
In November 2000 formalities were reported to be quick and simple, taking no more than 15 minutes to clear in an out in one visit. A charge of CV 1000$00 (about £6) was levied, for which local currency was required.
Facilities – add:
Fuel Diesel can also be ordered by road tanker, but surge along the wall still makes Palmiera and Mindelo better options for fuelling up.
Bottled gas Camping Gaz exchanges are reported to be available.
Banks Two, open mornings only and with no cash machines.
Shops/provisioning In November 2000 fresh bread was reported to be difficult to find (but Dutch canned beer was on sale by the case in a store opposite the hospital...).
Produce market Small, but suddenly blossoms when the (irregular) cargo ship arrives (possibly the explanation for the 'excellent assortment of cheeses' remarked upon by one couple in late 1999). A new market was under construction on the main square in December 2000, and meanwhile fresh produce was sold on the pavement outside.
Restaurants Credit cards are not accepted.
Communications – amend/add:
Telephone & fax At the post office, Fax 511227.
E-mail At the information desk of the Marine Club (though rather slow and expensive).
SAO NICOLAU
* Page 241 Lights – delete note in previous supplement, and add:
2933·2 Ponta Espechim 16°40'·5N 24°21'W Fl(3)5s42m8M Metal tower 5m
2933·3 Ponta Delgado 16°33'N 24°06'·5W Fl.WRG.4s6m5M Metal tower 5m
2933·1 Ponta Vermelharia 16°29'N 24°19'W Fl(5)20s17m8M Metal tower 5m
Page 242 Porto do Tarrafal – Lights
2932 Breakwater 16°34'·1N 24°21'·6W Iso.R.4s5m5M Red lantern on grey tower 5m
* 2933 Cais o Tarrafal 16°36'·5N 24°25'·5W IsoR.4s7m5M Post with red lantern
Note Although listed as an additional light (with a different international number) it seems unlikely that two lights with identical characteristics would exist so close together. Confirmation, together with a definitive position, would be welcome.
Approach and anchorage – add to first paragraph:
Yachtsmen landing by dinghy will always attract a posse of young 'boat minders' who will stay with the dinghy all day for a small sum.
Formalities – add:
The port office is reported to be closed all day Saturday and Sunday.
Facilities – add:
Water There is a tap at the bottom of steps near the port captain's office, though it is difficult to find (ask in the office).
Fuel As of November 2000 a diesel pump was reported in place on the breakwater, though the water alongside it appeared shallow.
Bank It may also be possible to change a limited amount of currency (dollars or sterling) in the café.
Restaurants & hotels Good modern café also selling bread.
SANTA LUZIA
* Lights – add:
2939 Ponta do Algodoeiro 16°47'·6N 24°47'W Fl(2)6s7m Metal tower 5m
2939·5 Ponta dos Tarrafes 16°44'·3N 24°42'·2W Fl(2+1)15s7m Metal tower 5m
Page 244 Charts – add:
Note It is reported that, as of mid 2000, ARCS digital chart 369 placed Ilhéu Zinho – and presumably Santa Luzia as a whole – some 0·5M west of its position according to WGS84 datum
Page 244 Praia do Palmo a Tostão
General – add second paragraph:
It is reported that the anchorage is prone to williwaws which may peak at more than twice the average wind speed. One yacht experienced squalls in excess of 50 knots, though no more than 25 knots was experienced on the passage towards São Vicente.
* Page 245 Ilhéu Branco – Lights
2940 Ilhéu Branco (no accurate position available) Fl(4)15s60m8M Metal tower 5m
SAO VICENTE
* Page 246 Lights – add:
2944·6 Calhau 16°51'·1N 24°52'W Fl(4)WRG15s8m5M Metal tower 5m
2944·4 Baía das Gatas 16°53'·9N 24°54'·5W Fl(3)R12s8m5M Metal tower 5m
2944·5 Salamanza 16°54'·6N 24°56'·1W Fl(2)WRG.6s7m5M Metal tower 5m
Page 246 Porto Grande (Mindelo)
* Plans – add:
Cabo Verdean 41
Lights – amend:
2943 Cabnave Shipyard 16°53'·9N 25°00'·3W Fl.R.2s8m5M Metal post 4m
2944 Outer breakwater 16°53'·2N 25°00'·4W Fl.R.4s10m5M White column 8m
1944·2 Inner breakwater 16°53'·2N 25°00'·3W Fl.G.3s9m5M White column 8m
2944·3 Passenger terminal 16°53'·1N 25°00'W Is.Y.4s4m5M
General – add to first, second and third paragraphs respectively, then add new final paragraph:
In late November 2000 at least sixty yachts were reported to be in the anchorage.
... watch one's possessions carefully (including the dinghy and outboard lying astern). Ashore, keep a wary eye open for young pickpockets, who often work in teams of four (two in front and two behind) and will also unfasten a money belt if given the chance.
As of November 2000 the first restaurant on the right at Praia da Laginha was reported to be okay and clean.
In January 2001 it was reported that a fishing harbour was under construction in the southeast corner of the bay, some 400m southwest of the Onave boatyard. Sources outside the islands state with confidence that at least one company has already tendered to build a marina at Mindelo, probably in the vicinity of the old customs house – the 'Torré de Belem replica' referred to previously – but that 'political problems' are holding things up. In June 2001 it was estimated that work was likely to start within the next two years.
Anchorage – add second paragraph:
Dinghies can be landed on the beach (or see Facilities below) in which case it may be wise to employ a 'minder' (there will be no shortage). Reliable boat minders receive a badge from the port office – ask to see this before agreeing terms. Once a 'boatboy' is appointed he will be the sole source for all the yacht's needs (filling diesel and water carriers, laundry, garbage etc), a situation respected by the competition. In late 2000 the daily rate for boat-minding * and other services was CV 500$00 (less than £3).
* In 2001 one crew returned to their dinghy, left on the beach, to find that their petrol tank had been siphoned dry.
Berthing – amend/add:
In 1997 a facility was set up by a German, Kai Brossmann, consisting of an elderly steel motor vessel * (the Eirene) moored near the beach against which a limited number of yachts can berth stern-to* (at a cost of about CV 100$00 per metre/day in late 2000). Various facilities are provided including a water-taxi service* at (CV 100$ per return trip, free to those berthed stern-to) and fresh water via a hose from the shore. The enterprise was still going strong in December * 2001.
Formalities – add:
* As of late 2001 it appeared that ship's papers were normally retained by the policia maritima until departure. As of 2001 no charges were levied for either entry or exit.
As of November 2000 Mindelo was one of the few places in the Cape Verdes where a crew list was required, and where inward and outward clearance could not be obtained in a single visit. (See also amendments to page 231).
Facilities – add/amend:
* Boatyard In 2001 it was reported that Cabnave's metalwork shop could fabricate virtually anything, quickly and at very little cost.
Chandlery In 2001 basic 'fisherman-type' items – chain, galvanised wire, rigging clamps etc – were reported to be if available one asked around.
Water – amend second paragraph:
As of late 1999 water quality was reported to be generally good, though it might still be wise to carry a stock of purification tablets just in case. In December 2000 it was confirmed that visiting yachtsmen appeared to suffer no ill effects from drinking untreated water. Water could be collected by can from the clube náutico (see below).
* In 2001 the water supplied via Kai Brossmann's barge (understood to be straight from the town supply) was tested for salinity and clarity by a visiting yachtsman and found to be 'extremely good' at around 70 parts per million.
Laundry/launderette In December 2000 laundry entrusted to Kai Brossmann's ladies was reported to come back clean but not dried.
Clube náutico In December 2000 it was reported that water was available from the clube náutico, but it was not clear if the club had been renovated generally.
Banks A cash machine (ATM) was installed by 1998, * but it appears that it does not accept international cards (VISA, MasterCard, Cirrrus etc) – only locally-issued ones .
Shops/provisioning In November 2000 it was reported that the Supermercado Serradas had evolved into a cash-and-carry, located south of the Praça Estrella (main square). UHT milk, pasta, beer etc were sold by the case at competitive, wholesale prices.
Produce market Reported in September 2000 to be open 'all day every day'.
* Medical services In 2000 it was reported that an injured yachtsman was treated aboard a visiting cruise ship.
Communications – add:
Telephones International calls can also be made from CompuCV Lda (see E-mail, below).
E-mail As of November 2000 CompuCV Lda, on Rue da Moeda, had six reasonably fast terminals; a second site above the French library (two blocks downhill from the produce market), had three slower terminals, making it advisable to book a time slot; while the Alliance Français were reported to operate an internet café on the waterfront south of the dinghy landing area. A fourth alternative was to take one's own laptop to the main post office and plug it into the phone socket in one of the international booths. * In 2001 these were reported to be fitted with European (rather than US) phone sockets.
E-mail Two locations as of November 2000 – CompuCV Lda, on Rue da Moeda, has six reasonably fast terminals; while a second site above the French library (two blocks downhill from the produce market), has three slower terminals, making it advisable to book a time slot.
* Page 252 – Baía das Gatas – Lights
2944·4 Baía das Gatas 16°53'·9N 24°54'·5W Fl(3)R12s8m5M Metal tower 5m
SANTO ANTAO
* Page 253 – Lights – add:
2955·1 Tarrafal de Monte Trigo 16°57'·2N 25°19'W Fl(5)WR.20s5M Metal tower 5m
2955 Cruzina de Garça 17°10'·1N 25°10'·4W Fl(2)WR.6s5M Metal tower 5m
Page 253 – Porto Novo – Lights
2956 Breakwater 17°00'·9N 25°03'·6W Iso.G.4s12m6M * Metal post 6m
Page 254 Baía do Tarrafal – Lights
* 2955·1 Tarrafal de Monte Trigo 16°57'·2N 25°19'W Fl(5)WR.20s5M Metal tower 5m
ILHA DO MAIO
Page 255 Lights
2874 Ponta Cais 15°20'N 23°11'·5W
No change notified to 'temporarily extinguished' status as of January 2001.
* 2875 Calheta 15°13'·5N 23°13'W Fl.WRG.4s6m8M Metal tower 5m
2873 Cais do Maio 15°08'·1N 25°13'·1W Iso.G.4s5m5M White tower
2875·5 Ponta dos Flamengos 15°10'·7N 23°05'·3W Fl(3)12s11m10M 038°-vis-292° Metal tower 5m
Page 256 Porto de Maio – Lights
2873 Cais do Maio 15°08'·1N 25°13'·1W Iso.G.4s5m5M White tower
SANTIAGO
Page 257 – Tidal Streams
In December 2000 a 2 knot easterly-setting current (or tidal stream) was encountered at mid-ebb just west of Porto da Praia.
Page 257 – Lights – add/amend:
* 2883·8 Calheta de São Miguel 15°11'·3N 23°35'·4W Fl(4)R.15s9m5M Metal tower 5m
2883·7 Pedra Badejo 15°08'·4N 23°31'·6W Fl.G.4s7m6M Metal tower 5m
2883·5 Praia Baixo 15°03'·9N 23°28'·4W Fl(3)G.12s9m6M Metal tower 5m
2882 Ponta do Lobo 14°59'·3N 23°25'·5W Fl(4)15s17m* 6M 190°-vis-335° Square tower and building * 9m
2876 Ponta Temerosa * (Ponta Dona María Pía) 14°53'·9N 23°30'·3W Fl(2)* 6s25m* 15M 258°-vis-095° White octagonal tower and building 21m
2883 Mosquito 14°57'·2N 23°41'·8W Fl(2)WRG.6s* 12m8M Grey tower 7m
* 2883·6 Porto Rinção 15°03'·5N 23°46'·5W Fl(5)WR.20s8m8-5M Metal tower 5m
2885 Chão Bom 15°15'·3N 23°44'·7W Fl(2+1)WRG.6m5M Metal tower 5m
2890 Ponta Pretá 15°17'·8N 23°46'·1N Fl(3)12s34m* 8M White * square building 6m
Page 257 – Porto da Praia
Plans – add:
The inset plan for Porto da Praia on Imray-Iolaire chart E4 is reported to place the harbour some 0·5M too far east, as compared to WGS84.
* Cabo Verdean 71
Lights – amend:
2876 Ponta Temerosa * (Ponta Dona María Pía) 14°53'·9N 23°30'·3W Fl(2)* 6s25m* 15M 258°-vis-095° White octagonal tower and building 21m
2881 Cais Novo 4°54'·4N 23°29'·7W * Iso.G.4s10m* 5M Lantern on round concrete structure 5m
General – add to third paragraph:
... that of young pickpockets, who often work in teams of four (two in front and two behind) and will also unfasten a money belt if given the chance.
* In 2001 a visiting yachtsman described the city as 'very pleasant' and clearly thriving, with well-stocked supermarkets and many new cars in evidence. At that time security did not appear to be a problem.
Approach
Recent surveying indicates that depths within the harbour may be up to 2m less than charted.
Anchorage – add to second, third and fourth paragraphs, and add new final paragraph:
... the southern jetty (currently the 'best' steps are reported to be on its northern side, though there is no place to leave a dinghy) or directly on the beach ...
Another possibility would be inside the short, angled stone mole in the northwest corner of the harbour, where there are a ramp and steps. Being directly under the southern end of the plateau it is convenient for the town, but the security situation is uncertain.
* The holding northwest of the Cais Novo has been confirmed as very good in firm, sandy mud.
In December 2000 the Capitão dos Portos recommended that yachts should not be left unattended at night.
* If cruising the islands in August, September or October, be warned that strong southerlies are quite common and send a dangerous swell into the bay. It may be possible to seek temporary shelter inside the small 'U' shaped dock, but it would be unwise to leave an anchored boat unattended for any length of time at this season.
Formalities – add to second and third paragraphs, and at end:
* In 2001 small sums (less than CV 500$00) were charged for entry and exit.
As of late 1999 it was reported that all crew members had to present themselves at the immigration office on both arrival and departure, even on a repeat visit. A photocopy of the data page of each crewmember's passport was also required – the only place in the archipelago where this was the case.
* Sadly, the new rules forbidding entry and departure other than via an 'Official Sea Border Post' (see Entry and regulations, indexed to page 231), appear to make a visit by yacht to either of these leeward islands impossible without breaking the law and risking a heavy fine – unless, of course, one is prepared to beat back to Porto da Praia for final clearance.
Facilities – add:
Banks A cash machine (ATM) was installed by 1998.
Communications – add:
* Post office By 2001 the northern post office had become the Instituto de Promoção Cultoral.
E-mail Above the library across the street from the north entrance to the produce market. Reported to have particularly fast connections. Also (or it may be one and the same) at the Palaçio Cultral on the north side of the main square opposite the cathedral, and at the Business Centre one block north of the hospital.
Page 261 – Baía do Tarrafal – Lights
2890 Ponta Pretá 15°17'·8N 23°46'·1N Fl(3)12s34m* 8M White * square building 6m
* The light on Cais do Tarrafal was officially discontinued in February 2002 – at least nine years after it ceased to exist.
General – add new third paragraph:
In June 2001 sources outside the Cape Verdes stated that there were plans afoot to build some form of marina or yacht harbour at Baía do Tarrafal. It is not known how accurate this is or what the projected timescale might be – or, indeed, where the money might come from...
Approach – add new second paragraph:
In December 2000 an unlit red buoy was reported approximately 0·5M southeast of Ponta Pretá, right in the entrance to Baía do Tarrafal. It may be a fish-lure buoy, similar to that reported southwest of Ribeira da Barca in 1993. It was also reported that local fishing boats frequently carry no lights.
Anchorage – add new second paragraph and add to (now) third:
In November 2001 the anchorage indicated on the plan was reported to be full of local moorings. Anchorage about 200m north-northwest of the cais proved unsuccessful, the yacht dragging on a stoney bottom, but a second attempt, near the 4m sounding southwest of the cais, found excellent holding over sandy mud. However this position afforded little protection from swell and the crew endured an unpleasantly rolly night.
In December 2000 the crew of an American yacht were 'aggressively' asked for old oilskins, marine paint, outboard spares etc – the only place this occurred throughout the entire archipelago.
Formalities – delete and replace:
Visit the delegaçia maritima (harbour office) in the north end of an empty warehouse overlooking the mole. There is no sign, and the office appears seldom to be manned, though mid-morning is probably the best time to catch someone.
ILHA DO FOGO
* Page 264 – General – delete final paragraph and replace:
Sadly, the new rules forbidding entry and departure other than via an 'Official Sea Border Post' (see Entry and regulations, indexed to page 231), appear to make a visit by yacht impossible without breaking the law and risking a heavy fine – unless, of course, one is prepared to beat back to Porto da Praia for final clearance.
Page 264 – Vale de Cavaleiros
Lights – amend:
Not lit as of December 2000
Plans – add:
Caution It is reported that the plan on page 265 places the harbour some 0·5M too far west, as compared to WGS84.
Harbour plan – amend:
Depth on contour in top left corner from '0' to '19'
Approach and entrance – delete second and third paragraphs and replace with:
After a number of years in disrepair the breakwater was finally rebuilt in early 2000 (see photo). However by December it was still not lit, its tip marked only by a pole surmounted by a red diamond, making night entry unwise.
Berthing and anchorage – delete first 13 lines and replace with:
The breakwater is in constant use by cargo ships and interisland ferries, and should the helpful port captain suggest berthing either alongside or stern-to it would be wise to ascertain when the next ship is due. Swell may also be a problem, though the angled breakwater end gives some protection.
Anchoring is likely to be the better option, certainly for a stay of more than a few hours. Bearing in mind that most ships need the entire width between the breakwater and the old inner mole to turn (either on arrival or departure), the best spot appears to be stern-to south of the old mole, with a bow anchor and a line ashore (see photo). There is space for no more than three yachts, in 4m over sand and rock, and swell-induced chafe is likely to be significant – a chain loop around the rocks ashore is a wise precaution, with nylon or other springs on both anchor and stern lines. The area north of the old mole has been partially filled in by a small stone quay, and also appears to have silted up.
CLICK HERE for photo of Vale de Cavaleiros, Ilha do Fogo
Formalities – add second paragraph:
By December 2000 the port captain was reported to operate from a table in the bar at Cavaleiros – itself housed in a 12m (40ft) container on the road leading up from the harbour. A crew list giving name, passport number and place/date of birth was required, but there was no other formalities and departure papers were available the following day. The port captain was very helpful and there was little doubt that yachts were welcome in the harbour.
Facilities – add:
... but little else (other than the bar mentioned above). However it may be possible for diesel to be delivered by Shell road tanker – very convenient prior to an Atlantic passage.
Page 266 – São Filipe and Na Sa de Encarnação
Communications – add:
E-mail Four fast terminals at Eduteca in the centre of São Filipe (closed Sundays).
ILHA BRAVA
* Page 267 – General – add:
Sadly, the new rules forbidding entry and departure other than via an 'Official Sea Border Post' (see Entry and regulations, indexed to page 231), appear to make a visit by yacht impossible without breaking the law and risking a heavy fine – unless, of course, one is prepared to beat back to Porto da Praia for final clearance.
Page 267 – Lights
2911 Ponta de Fajã de Água 14°52'N 24°45'W Fl(3)5s24m5M Metal tower 5m
Page 268, Porto da Furna – Lights
2909 Porto da Furna pierhead 14°53'·2N 24°39'·9W (reported not to be lit as of December 2000)
Approach and anchorage – delete from second sentence onwards and replace with:
After major construction work during 1999/2000 the ferry now berths against the west (inner) face of Ponta Badejo (see photo, taken facing northeast from near the church). The quay is unlit, marked only by a green post with a west cardinal topmark. This still allows room for three or four yachts to tuck into the northern part of the harbour with reasonable protection from wind and swell, though the surrounding hills may deflect the prevailing northeast trades around to southeast or even southwest within the harbour itself.
CLICK HERE for photo of Porto da Furna, Brava
The first yacht to arrive will probably be invited to secure a bow line to a large, unlit, yellow mooring buoy about 100m west of the ferry dock, taking a stern line to the wall (though the large eye-bolts referred to in the book appear to have been removed, making either chain loops or stout chafing gear essential). Later arrivals should anchor further west – the ferry needs the full distance between the quay and the yellow buoy to manoeuvre – though taking care to avoid several small buoys marking fish storage baskets. Depths shoal to the west of the short inner slipway and pier, used by small locals vessels. Dinghies can be landed either at this pier or in the northeast corner of the harbour, taking care not to impede the ferry berth.
Formalities – insert:
... his office in the first building on the right after the pier. The entrance is up some stairs at the back .
Page 269 Faja d'Agua (Porto da Faja) – Lights
* 2911 Ponta de Fajã de Água 14°52'N 24°45'W Fl(3)5s24m5M Metal tower 5m
Note Presumably situated on the headland northwest of the anchorage, though to the south might seem more logical.
CLICK HERE for photo of Faja d'Agua, Brava
Approach and anchorage – amend first sentence to end:
... in 8m or less over sand with a few rocks.
Facilities – amend first paragraph, add new second paragraph:
There is one café/bar plus a small general store, as well as the 'Ocean Front Motel and Sunset Bar', a small hotel and restaurant run by an American Cape Verdean.
More shops, including a relatively well-stocked general store, will be found some distance up the valley at Vila de Señora del Montaña. Taxis are available, though the energetic will enjoy the attractive walk. Very little English is spoken in the area.
806 I SERIE NO 26 – REPUBLIC OF CAPE VERDE – 26 JULY 1999
The legal framework for the Official Border Posts of Cape Verde was regulated by Article 2 in the law decree No 10.75 of 17 February. A number of these regulations are no longer applicable due to changes in the law since it was first passed.
Regardless of that, and over twenty years of the Declaration of Independence, the political, economic and social situation in the country has significantly developed. The international arena has also dramatically changed.
On the other hand, countries are faced with new challenges, which are more complex, demanding and globally related. This is true both regarding the economic pressures coming from the global market economy and its need to open economic borders, as well as from a national Security point of view to combat organised crime.
With this in mind, this proposal intends to redefine the Official Border Posts with a more accurate assessment of each Post's real possibilities and potential both in the mid-term or long-term.
This proposal will establish six Official Border Posts and the rules governing the opening and closing of future Posts. It will also define a set of rules for maritime and air companies and its agents as well as fines and sanctions to be imposed for the violation of these rules.
In the light of above, it is hereby determined by decree, the creation of Official Border Posts where foreign nationals will be able to enter and leave the country.
With the authority vested on the Government according to line a) of NQ2 of article 2161 of the Constitution the Government decrees the following:
Article 1 – Object
This Diploma creates the Official Border Posts through where foreign nationals enter and leave the country.
Article 2 – Official Border Posts
The transit of foreign nationals in and out of the country can only take place through one of the following Official Border Posts:
a) 'Air border post' – Francisco Mendes Airport. Situated at Praia City
b) 'Air border post' – Amilcar Cabral International Airport. Situated at Sal Island
c) 'Air border post' – Sao Pedro Airport. Situated at Sao Vicente Island
d) 'Sea border post' – Praia Harbour. Situated at Praia City
e) 'Sea border post' – São Vicente Harbour. Situated at Mindelo City
f) 'Sea border post' – Palmeiras Harbour. Situated at Sal Island.
Article 3 – The opening and closing of Official Border Posts
The Government may, if it finds appropriate, open and/or close Official Border Posts.
If, for National Security reasons a member of the Government responsible for the Post's administration, decides – or is advised to by other government bodies – may decide to temporarily close/open Official Border Posts.
Article 4 – Maritime and air companies' and its agents' obligations
The maritime and air companies and its agents have to, by law:
a) Notify the relevant authorities within a 5-hour period prior to the departure of its ships which then can only take place after the authorities' approval.
b) To present – at the time of arrival – a list of all passengers whose final destination is that of the Border Post and a second list of passengers who are in transit.
Article 5 – List of nationals entering the country
The authority in charge of the official Border post will compile a list of all foreign nationals entering the country, as well as those who left the country within the rules yet to be approved by the Government official responsible for each Border Post.
Article 6 – Fines and Sanctions
1) Apart from other fines and sanctions defined by law, any national who enters or leaves the country without going through the Official Border Posts is liable to a fine of no less than 20,000$ and no more than 5,000,000$.
2) The same sum applicable in the previous item in Article 6 will be incurred over any individual who facilitates, conceals or assists any other individual to enter or leave the country through other means rather than the Official Border Posts.
3) Any individual violating the rules stated in Article 41 will be liable to a fine of no less than 50,000$ and no more than 2,500,000$.
4) Any individual entering or leaving the country through an Official Border Post will have to present themselves and pay the sum between 10,000$ and 100,000$.
Article 7 – Authority to issue fines
It is within the Border Police's authority to issue the fines described in the previous Article unless overruled by a court of law.
Article 8 – Revocation
It is hereby revoked, any contrary legislation accordingly to the law decree No 10/75 of 17th February.
Article 9 – Validity
As from now this Diploma becomes law. Sanctioned by the Council of Ministers, Carlos Veiga – Simão Monteiro
Passed as law 9th July 1999. To be published. The President of the Republic, Antonio Manuel Mascarenhas Monteiro
Issued on 9 July 1999, The Prime Minister, Carlos Veiga
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